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Vibration. Do I really have to take off the driveshaft?

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  #11  
Old 09-15-2009 | 05:15 PM
Spike555's Avatar
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Just out of curiosity why are you guys using Tom Woods prop shafts?
And only one? I would think that you would want 2 (front and rear), only having the front does you no good right?
Is it just because of personal choice or are you trying to accomplish something?
 
  #12  
Old 09-15-2009 | 08:42 PM
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I just wanted a burly, turnkey ready driveshaft that would last the life of the truck no matter how hard I mod it.

I also didn't want to wheel around with no front driveshaft (while mine was being rebuilt).
 
  #13  
Old 09-15-2009 | 09:39 PM
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No problem, I am just curious.
 
  #14  
Old 09-16-2009 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Just out of curiosity why are you guys using Tom Woods prop shafts?
And only one? I would think that you would want 2 (front and rear), only having the front does you no good right?
Is it just because of personal choice or are you trying to accomplish something?
I only use tom woods on modified for off road use jeeps.

i would use one on the disco if i changed its use from mostly road to mostly off road. but thats not the case.

I can see why some would though, the cost is roughly the same as buying a nicely rebuilt stock shaft.
 
  #15  
Old 09-16-2009 | 11:20 AM
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Call Tom Woods, if there is a problem, they will deal with it.
Have you inspected your rotoflex, greased your front and rear shaft, aired up your tires and had them checked for being out of balance.
 
  #16  
Old 09-16-2009 | 01:14 PM
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I don't want to imply that Tom Woods was less than helpful when I called and talked to him and he gave me 20% off my second shaft. Im just pissed at the circumstances and thought when I was buying this burly shaft it would be the last one I needed. The company as a whole have been great and that is why I bought the second one from them as well. I wish I had thought about asking if there was a better option for me... I might when I send the other back, I just thought there was one type.
edit: I agree with what oysterhead says about why I got it spike...
 
  #17  
Old 09-16-2009 | 01:44 PM
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they're going to send out a new shaft, and let me return the old one after-the-fact. there is NOT a more "road friendly" version available from TW.

he acknowledged that at 70+ MPH, the next driveshaft might also vibrate. he doesnt expect it to, but it would not be unheard of.

that being said, he said its not uncommon for the balance to be affected during shipping, etc.

that's about all i can ask for from them. normally they would only do a return like this within 30-days. i bought the shaft two months ago, but delayed on the install.
 

Last edited by oysterhead; 09-16-2009 at 01:47 PM.
  #18  
Old 09-16-2009 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jayv

I can see why some would though, the cost is roughly the same as buying a nicely rebuilt stock shaft.
That makes sense, what does not make sense is a beefy shaft up front and a "weak" one in the rear.
Thats where my confusion was, if you are going for strength you need to replace them both.
But if it is a more bang for your buck issue I fully understand, if it is a "because I wanted one" issue I fully understand that too.
I was just curious.
 
  #19  
Old 09-16-2009 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by oysterhead
so pull out the driveshaft, lock the CDL, and drive 80 MPH down the highway? that's totally safe?
Yes (aside from the fact that 80 is over the limit most places.

freaks me out to drive with the CDL locked (1) on dry pavement and (2) at highway speeds.
Why?
 
  #20  
Old 09-16-2009 | 08:15 PM
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because it says max 45 mph on the console?
 


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