Vibration and Harshness when moving
I think bushings/mounts are probably far overlooked on these vehicles, i own a few bmw's and at 60,000 miles most of them need replaced and it makes a world of difference. I may look at doing some of the other ones in the near future.
Front Driver completely destroyed. Front passenger you can see the gap from rubber to metal.

Rear transfer case side, split and twisted.
Front Driver completely destroyed. Front passenger you can see the gap from rubber to metal.

Rear transfer case side, split and twisted.
It's like the rear driveshaft rotoflex, you only realize how bad they are once you hear others ideas and experiences and then inspect your own. The ones in the photos are destroyed but it is unlikely you would know until you remove them. It's a worthwhile repair exercise I would guess. If nothing else, after 100K miles it cannot do any harm.
Thanks for the heads up. I must crack on with mine soon before we trek back home to the UK. It's only a 1000+ miles round trip but it gets monotonous with the vibes. I reckon the job should take no more than, I guess, 2-4 hours. Is that your estimation as well?
My only vibrations in my truck are at 35 mph when I shift into fourth gear at a low rpm. I have drive at 80 Mph with zero vibrations. Maybe I'm lucky.
I have a bad motor mount also, I'm swapping them for QT's performance mounts in the front and then replacing the rears as you suggested (great idea, I completely overlooked them).
Although many are skeptical about the Qt's, being metal; but they have a small bushing in there, and it makes the power more readily available, no surging or twisting with standard rubber ones. Someone did a review on them, he said with his sensitive back from a previous surgery he didn't feel any increase in vibrations and said it felt like the rover v8 had more *****.
Just something to think about if your going to do all the work, some more options.
I have a bad motor mount also, I'm swapping them for QT's performance mounts in the front and then replacing the rears as you suggested (great idea, I completely overlooked them).
Although many are skeptical about the Qt's, being metal; but they have a small bushing in there, and it makes the power more readily available, no surging or twisting with standard rubber ones. Someone did a review on them, he said with his sensitive back from a previous surgery he didn't feel any increase in vibrations and said it felt like the rover v8 had more *****.
Just something to think about if your going to do all the work, some more options.
That is a pretty safe time frame, also get both fronts done at the same time then rears. Dont do one mount at a time seems it would take longer.
My only vibrations in my truck are at 35 mph when I shift into fourth gear at a low rpm. I have drive at 80 Mph with zero vibrations. Maybe I'm lucky.
I have a bad motor mount also, I'm swapping them for QT's performance mounts in the front and then replacing the rears as you suggested (great idea, I completely overlooked them).
Although many are skeptical about the Qt's, being metal; but they have a small bushing in there, and it makes the power more readily available, no surging or twisting with standard rubber ones. Someone did a review on them, he said with his sensitive back from a previous surgery he didn't feel any increase in vibrations and said it felt like the rover v8 had more *****.
Just something to think about if your going to do all the work, some more options.
I have a bad motor mount also, I'm swapping them for QT's performance mounts in the front and then replacing the rears as you suggested (great idea, I completely overlooked them).
Although many are skeptical about the Qt's, being metal; but they have a small bushing in there, and it makes the power more readily available, no surging or twisting with standard rubber ones. Someone did a review on them, he said with his sensitive back from a previous surgery he didn't feel any increase in vibrations and said it felt like the rover v8 had more *****.
Just something to think about if your going to do all the work, some more options.
Checked the run out according to landrover tsb, on the parking brake drum, the tc output flange and front diff flange. All was under .10 which is within spec. Im starting to think front hubs/diff.
I have to admit your mag block and dial gauge are the 'business', I use exactly the same type but made in the USA 40+ years ago
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Jan 2, 2014 at 06:13 AM.



