Right at the end of the rear drive shaft. The end towards the rear, where it connects the diff. Its connected by three bolts, in a circle.

 

If you are taking it in this weekend, make sure they also replace the centering ball, along with the 2 u-joints.
As for your tires, be real carefull if they are that warn, Disco's are hard on tires, need strong sidewalls and can not be allowed to go out of balance or they will eat themselves up and blow out.

 

I think it's prudent to take the driveshafts, but I've never had a driveshaft (especially rear) cause steering wheel shake violently.

My money's on ball joint, tie rod or both.

Tires would transmit a vibration progressively worse the faster you go, not just start shaking the steering wheel.

Occasionally, I've had bad front brake rotors cause steering wheel shake around 60 mph, also.

Just my thought's

luck,greg

 

I've been keeping my driving minimal as to minimize any problems I could have with the tires. What kind of tires would you recommend for a commuter that off-roads on occasions?

 

I think its a combination of all those things you just said!! I need to get my driveshaft rebuilt, my tires are worthless, and when I got the truck checked out, the technician said I need new rotors and brakes seeing that the rotors were so warped they were beyond repair. Apparently the previous owner didn't realize that a heavy object creates a lot of momentum and inertia which in turns needs a lot more force and pressure to stop.........Sorry about the physics. Basically the last owner was a dumbass who jammed the brakes all the time!!

 

I'd still trust DiscoMike over you.

Since you're turning this into an argument, bringing evidence and all.... is it just me or did they mis-spell maneuver??

Or is that just another British remake ?

 

I'd do the driveshafts, then the rotors(with pads) I bet you'll love the difference.

Tires are your preference, I had firestone destination le's on my D1 for almost 50k mi.
(cheap & highly rated) they were excellent.

I just put on sumotomo all-terrains & love'em so far (1000 mi)mud, rain, dry
not a lot of tire-whirring


luck,greg

 

Ive got some wheels and tires for sale in classifieds if you wanna gander

 

My truck is a daily-driver that sees moderate off-road use. I just replaced the shyte GY Wranglers that come on these with a set of Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10. I am VERY pleased with these tires so far! They look great, and the price is fantastic. You can buy them online from Discounttiredirect.com for about $160 apiece (depends on size, may be a little less for you if you're on 16" wheels), shipped. I got lucky and found a shop in town that sells Hankook and they sold them to me for $175 apiece installed.

Another good thing about the Hankooks is that they can be had in almost every size imaginable. Plus, these tires didn't take nearly as much weight to balance as the Goodyear's did. I did a lot of research before buying tires, and these are a very good alternative to the BF Goodrich All Terrains.

 

You can trust who you want.
No, not turning it in to an argument, I just don't like internet folklore perpetuated, especially when it comes to something critical to safe operation. It's not at all unusual for people to think they are fixing death wobble by replacing their damper, since so many people don't know what they are for.

I'm not at all saying anything new. People have been adding steering dampers to vehicles to deal with kickback when off-roading since before I started off-roading Land Rovers in the early 70's.
Land Rovers have had the same steering setup on the axle since '48. For Series Rovers steering dampers were an option you could get to protect you from kickback. Adding a steering damper to them was never the fix for too light swivel pin preload. And it still isn't. Well, that is if you believe Land Rover, which, obviously, you don't.

You're driving a British vehicle and it's a British shop manual, how would you expect them to spell it?