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viscous fan. proper operation?

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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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Three Wheeling
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Default viscous fan. proper operation?

Hello All,

I will soon be replacing my PS pump, 80mm idler pully bearing and serpentine belt. I've had my head under the hood a lot lately, monitoring the PS fluid level and I noticed while starting the engine with the hood open that the cooling fan always runs, even at cold start-up (mid to high 40's ambient). Is this an indicator that the viscous clutch is not working properly or is soon to fail? I know it is not seized, because I can spin the fan by hand, but I thought that these types of fans were designed not to spin until temperature reached a given point. Should I line up a replacement now since I'll be taking it off to service the PS pump next week anyhow?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thank you,
Ben

VEHICLE: 2003 Disco II S. 75,000mi


p.s. I will have a take-off PS pump if anyone is interested once I put the new one in. It seems to work fine, just the gasket is completely shot (gone), and I could not get a proper seal with grey RTV alone and it leaks still. I only want to tear this thing apart one more time, so I opted for a new pump. Internals look in very nice shape. It would be a good backup I think for someone a bit more handy than I am.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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My viscous fan will always spin as there is still resistance when cold, it just spins faster when it locks up. Fingers crossed my RTV'd PAS pump is still going strong. Maybe yours is leaking from the shaft or did you not let the RTV setup before tightening the bolts?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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The PS pump did not leak at the shaft when I pulled it first, it leaked near the inlet hose at the gasket. Per the RTV instructions, I finger-tightened, then after 1 hour, went another 1/4 turn. I waited 24hrs before filling the P/S system and starting the engine. Now I see it leaks somewhere further up since I can see the fluid streaming down the side of the unit.

So, maybe the fan is supposed to turn all the time? I'd be happy not to replace that part too. I've still got the SAI pump and windscreen motor on my to-do list.

Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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On the pump, after 24 hours you need to crank down the bolts pretty tight with an allen socket and ratchet in order to get a proper seal. I think you should get it sealed, if not send it to me
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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well, when I cranked it down and or put the pump firmly in the mount location, the internals would not spin at all, like it was bound up if the two halves went right tight together. So I laid the RTV on thicker and loctited the screws in place....but it didnt hold. I am commited to the new pump (paid for already) so the current one will be for sale once the new one gets installed.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Scout_Beagle
well, when I cranked it down and or put the pump firmly in the mount location, the internals would not spin at all, like it was bound up if the two halves went right tight together. So I laid the RTV on thicker and loctited the screws in place....but it didnt hold. I am commited to the new pump (paid for already) so the current one will be for sale once the new one gets installed.
Not sure why your pump bound it was not from them being too tight though, I torqued mine to 30 lbs. I thought you were giving away the old pump, good luck selling an unrepairable leaky pump
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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I thought you were giving away the old pump, good luck selling an unrepairable leaky pump
I have to be an optimist . Seriously, I've thought about what could be wrong with the reassembly, and I think when I put it back together (since I dumped out all the parts while cleaning) I used my vise to gently press the parts back in, but not far enough and/or pushed the whole shaft assembly too far in from the front, casuing it to bind up. I will tinker with it once I've got it out and my Disco back on the road with the new pump. I'm still money ahead from taking it to a mechanic's shop for a new pump install anyhow...
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:20 AM
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If you are replacing the 1 idler bearing, do all 3 cause they all wear out.
As for the fan, take the Rave link from my signature are and down load it, there is a good write up on the fans proper operation.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Thanks Mike. I guess I didn't read the RAVE thoroughly enough the first time through to find that part (stupidly looked under the "repair" tab).

I guess I will have to look at the other two idlers when I have it apart again, but I did not notice any play in them the last time. Off-hand, do you know if the bearing is replaceable in the 70mm pulley as well? I have the two steel idler pulleys, not the plastic ones. I'd rather not put plastic pullies on if I don't have to.

Thanks,
Ben
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 10:03 AM
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You can replace the bearing in the bigger idler pulley, but not the smaller pulley or the tensioner pulley since they are crimped in - on mine anyway. You can get replacement pulleys at Carquest, they have the metal HD pulleys made in Canada.
 
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