94svt50 - I received your PM, but will respond here as it will likely benefit others.

My Disco is a 2004 and had about 75k miles on it when I replaced the bearing. I too struggled for a bit trying to decide what my options were. I first contacted a couple of local indy rover shops, and they didn't want to replace the bearing - they just wanted to replace the engine. That really wasn't an option as I didn't want to sink that much money into it. I also couldn't sell the truck in good conscience without revealing the problem (thus greatly lowering the selling price). My head gaskets had also just started to leak. After reading a couple other people's experience doing the repair, I decided to go for it myself. In hindsight, I am glad that I did the work myself.

As you probably read in my write-up, I didn't have a ton of "mechanic" experience outside of already replacing the cracked oil gears and doing other similar work (brakes, alternator, etc). The RAVE manual provided the bulk of the information I needed to do the job and I relied on it heavily. I just took things slow and methodically. Once I got it back together, it fired up the first time and didn't require any other work.

Which bearing is out on yours? I bet it is bearing number 4 (second from the end). If so, and if you choose to make the repair yourself, I would be happy to sell you the tool that I used to repair mine. It was machined for bearing #4 and won't work on the others. I tried to find a tool locally for rent, but could not.

When I installed the new bearing, it felt like it went in pretty snugly. However, it could likely come loose again - I just don't know. I am almost a year into my repair with another 10k on the engine and it seems to be holding fine.

I did not have any liner problems, so I did not have those worked on. The only machine work I had done was to smooth the heads before putting them back on. I also replaced the radiator, hoses, and spark plugs while I was in there.

In hindsight, I should have pulled the engine as I have developed a rear main seal leak. If I would have pulled the engine, I would have replaced that seal. However, the job is totally do-able with the engine in the car. You do have to pull the radiator, AC condenser, and front grill to get to the front of the engine.

Is it worth it to you to do the work? I can't answer that for you. My cost was roughly $1k in parts and tools to do it. You may have to sink more money into it as you have more miles on your engine.

Hopefully this information can help you make you decision.

Any other information you need?

 

Thanks for the in depth reply! Yes, it's the same bearing on mine. Mine has what I assume is tapping liners. It's done it for the last 50k miles or so and need to take that into consideration before doing anything with current engine. The other thing that troubled me is what caused bearing to fail the first time and is that same set of circumstances going to continue. Some other reading has revealed that once bearing begins to spin the bore will need to be milled to accept larger size bearing to achieve a snug enough fit. But if it's getting adequate oil one would assume it would not spin.
Thanks again for the info!

 

If I put it all back together as is, how long would it run with low oil pressure and spun bearing?

 

94, Have not seen it mentioned yet, but what oil have you been using?

 

Rotella 15w40. Since I bought it in 2011 about 53k miles ago.

 

I would not advise to run the engine with a walked cam bearing. It will self destruct. Considering how scored your timing cover was, the bearing issue, and your liner problem, your engine is running on borrowed time. It wouldn't cost much to try and DIY fix the cam bearing ($30-50 for the bearings + the tool), so I'd try that first if you're game. As mentioned before though, doing it with the engine in will be a major PITA. Hopefully the AC condenser can be moved aside without disconnecting the lines, I don't know, I've never done it.

You might get a few more miles out of it. In my opinion, don't invest the money in a new timing cover.

 

Your right about the engine condition. It's hard to know what to do here. If the truck was mint I would for sure drop a top hatted turner motor in. But all the sun roofs leak, interior is worn from my 6 kids and muddy boots. Both bumpers are cracked, paint is faded and oxydizing on hood and roof. One of the boys wrote all over the doors with a rock. And it's going to need tires soon.
Struggling with the cost to value ratio here.

 

I wonder if I could pry the bearing back in place from underneath? If I can get the bearings oil hole to line up with the oil journal. Read an old thread where someone put old bearing back in and pinned it in place. Not sure if they did that from underneath or from a tear down.

 

Any one know where the oil hole is at in the bearing bore for the can bearing? Would it be at the 12 0clock?

 

Never mind the bearing is not going back in. It's chewed almost in half by contact with lifter.