I'm looking at a number of D IIs this week and hope to pull the trigger on one of them. I'll be on the eye out for a rust free truck that has all it's service records.

Are there any things that would be an immediate red flag that would make you instantly walk away? Is 3 amigos one of those? Salvage title? Death VIN #s?

 

If I were looking for one now I'd ask how savy the PO was. Did they do their own oil changes or were they the type to take it to Walmart? I"d also take an ultraguage with me and read the engine temperatures. Is it still running dexcool? How wet is the motor and where is it leaking? It's a LR it's leaking somewhere.

3 Amigos wouldnt make me run away but it would factor in my decision. It's just a PIA you'd have to fix. Death Vin's if they're still running then they have been fixed by now. Salvage Title wouldn't be ideal but rebuilt wouldn't make me run away if you don't care about resale value.

 

Thanks for those tips.

Salvage: resale value isn't a prime concern of mine as I plan to hold onto whatever car I get until it dies, but it's always still a concern as you never really know what happened to earn that title.

Agreed on the 3 amigos, its a PIA and not something I'd like to deal with right off the bat.

Is Dexcool what they come with stock/from dealer? What are the dangers associated with that?

Would you always carfax a car before purchase?

 

 

Great tips, thank you

 

Yeah I'd definitely pull the carfax. Dexcool has been known to cake up and crystalize as it ages in the cooling system. That's why it's recommended to switch to green coolant. If I was going to buy one now I would budget a refresh of the cooling system. That means brass propeller waterpump, at least 180 Grey Temp thermostat, the inline thermostat mod would be ideal though, new radiator, and throttle body bypass. All this contingent on what has already been replaced and how much you can wrench obviously. You'll need to get the drive shaft u joints replaced with greaseable ones as well. This way you can start fresh and know where the truck stands as you own the vehicle. If so sign of HG leak then you should be in good shape. I'd also ask if they changed the transfer case fluid and make sure the level is working correctly when you test drive.

 

I always enjoy the Craigslist ads that say " needs a new battery so will need to be towed away". Classic

 

 

Take a scan tool.....even if the SES is not on they my have just cleared the codes. Check for readiness. If all monitors are not ready the ECM has been recently cleared.....walk away.

 

Ha ha!

It's a 15+ year old Land Rover. You'll drive yourself nuts if you nitpick one.

Keep it simple. Walk away from extreme frame rust when you peak underneath it.

Watch your dash gauges when you twist the key to On/Run (not Start position). In this position all dash lights should illuminate so any that don't can be considered inop. Now watch for how long your Low Oil Pressure light remains illuminated when you turn the Key to Start/Run. More than 2 seconds is a problem. Walk away unless you have high level mech skills.

Does it overheat at idle? Walk away unless you have high level mech skills.

Does it rev smoothly?

Do you hear engine knocking when you rev and release the throttle? Walk away unless you have high level mech skills.

Do you feel major vibrations in drivetrain or hear thumps as you gently accelerate? Walk away unless you have high level mech skills.

Use your $2 OBD2 tool and your smartphone app to see if the codes report misfires. Ignore minor codes such as SAI.

Test the brake pedal and test the emergency brake handle.

Test in High and test in Low gearing via the upper shift ****. Listen for crunches.

Look for obvious signs of leaks around the windshield and sunroofs.

After you turn the motor off look on the passenger floorboard for coolant from a leaking heater core.


Basically, if it starts, runs, and drives without overheating or vibrations you aren't facing deal-killer issues. Keep in mind that you aren't expecting to get a new vehicle here.