Warning signs when buying a Discovery II
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 503
I have a very long list that I go through. Everything from simple stuff like rust and such, to verifying all the electrical stuff is functioning. For the one I have now, I actually spent about 30-40 minutes just crawling under and around it before even thinking about starting it. The D2 specific scan tool is absolutely critical as is an external temp gauge reader to verify the cooling system is kinda working. Just today I added a Combustion chamber tester (the thing with the fluid that verifies there are no exhaust gasses in the cooling system- frankly tests for a cracked block or failed head gaskets).
Now everything is so ridiculously well documented and as long as you know where to look, pretty cheap to fix. This is probably stuff you already know, and with a little research can check on all the veery well known issues out there for the Disco and how to resolve. They really are a very fun tinker toy.
Getting to things that would cause me to walk away, or not even contact a seller (unless they were basically giving it away):
- aftermarket wheels
- an incorrectly executed lift (anything over 2 inches done correctly will cost more than the value of the vehicle)
- ridiculous stereo
- aftermarket alarm
- obvious signs of neglect (disgusting interior, missing trim, mismatched tires as mentioned)
- rust (I just don’t do rot and will do a fly and drive to get a clean frame)
Now everything is so ridiculously well documented and as long as you know where to look, pretty cheap to fix. This is probably stuff you already know, and with a little research can check on all the veery well known issues out there for the Disco and how to resolve. They really are a very fun tinker toy.
Getting to things that would cause me to walk away, or not even contact a seller (unless they were basically giving it away):
- aftermarket wheels
- an incorrectly executed lift (anything over 2 inches done correctly will cost more than the value of the vehicle)
- ridiculous stereo
- aftermarket alarm
- obvious signs of neglect (disgusting interior, missing trim, mismatched tires as mentioned)
- rust (I just don’t do rot and will do a fly and drive to get a clean frame)
FWIW,
When Nigel blew a headgasket last year, I decided to look for a good running D2 for $1500.
I found Winston, a 2001 with 240k+ miles. He had rear-ended someone, the ARB bumper is bent, the hood and LF fender are bent. Grille was broken, so I removed it. 4 mis-matched tires. A/C cold, does not overheat. No knocking, runs a little rough. Replacing the tires helped the vibration some, it disappears on left turns but is there on straight/right turns.
I have driven Winston for 1 year and 2200 miles, just running errands around town. I haven't done anything to him except add fuel and 1 qt of oil. No problems until recently with misfire codes, which I am working through.
All in all, Winston was a bargain. He has paid for himself. It is just time to throw some love and money at him. I bought Scrappy, a part-out, for parts, so now I have 2-1/2 D2's.
You can spend under 1k for a non-runner, or 8K+ for a beauty. Either way, there is probably several thousand in expenses in the near future. These are old, persnickety vehicles. If you are fond of them, you won't care. They WILL test your patience!
When Nigel blew a headgasket last year, I decided to look for a good running D2 for $1500.
I found Winston, a 2001 with 240k+ miles. He had rear-ended someone, the ARB bumper is bent, the hood and LF fender are bent. Grille was broken, so I removed it. 4 mis-matched tires. A/C cold, does not overheat. No knocking, runs a little rough. Replacing the tires helped the vibration some, it disappears on left turns but is there on straight/right turns.
I have driven Winston for 1 year and 2200 miles, just running errands around town. I haven't done anything to him except add fuel and 1 qt of oil. No problems until recently with misfire codes, which I am working through.
All in all, Winston was a bargain. He has paid for himself. It is just time to throw some love and money at him. I bought Scrappy, a part-out, for parts, so now I have 2-1/2 D2's.
You can spend under 1k for a non-runner, or 8K+ for a beauty. Either way, there is probably several thousand in expenses in the near future. These are old, persnickety vehicles. If you are fond of them, you won't care. They WILL test your patience!
Pro Wrench
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 229
From: Fall City, WA
I think you got some great feedback here but, I am going to toss in my .02
Head gasket being replaced is what I was looking for before buying the truck, with the assumption I was going to have to do a lot of work on the truck to sort out the other items. I got the truck for a fair price and spent the next year sorting out all the other items If you are dead set on a D2, get a scanner prior to purchase and check all the codes. I recommend getting the iCarsoft LRII from Amazon for about $140. This way you can check the codes and SLABs for any hidden codes to see what you are getting into. Hook the scanner up prior to driving and then check after at least a 30 minute drive.
Head gasket being replaced is what I was looking for before buying the truck, with the assumption I was going to have to do a lot of work on the truck to sort out the other items. I got the truck for a fair price and spent the next year sorting out all the other items If you are dead set on a D2, get a scanner prior to purchase and check all the codes. I recommend getting the iCarsoft LRII from Amazon for about $140. This way you can check the codes and SLABs for any hidden codes to see what you are getting into. Hook the scanner up prior to driving and then check after at least a 30 minute drive.
Owner knowledge is what I go by instantly. If they can’t find the hood release, or act totally clueless that is warning #1, then of coarse is the usual LR D2 checklist. I’ve personaly bought a few LR’s with cheap tires, but the vehicles themselves were excellent so tire brand/condition is no concern to me honestly. I concentrate on frame, cooling system, interior/exterior condition, and I DO NOT buy any used LR with any aftermarket alarm/stereo no matter how nice of a LR it is. One thing you DO NOT want is some shop in a hurry to cut wires and cause you all kinds of issues. 3 Amigo’s on doesn’t bother me as it’s easy to fix and you can use it to your advantage and get some $$$ off because everyone automatically assumes it’s $$$$ to fix. SES light on doesn’t bother me either if I know what the codes are.
Unless I’m getting a LR from a friend I always plan on new tires, brakes, fluid changes, and I have some $$$ left over to address any issues. I’d recommend an older 99-02 personally vs an 03-04 and I also prefer higher mileage LR’s to low mileage ones.
Unless I’m getting a LR from a friend I always plan on new tires, brakes, fluid changes, and I have some $$$ left over to address any issues. I’d recommend an older 99-02 personally vs an 03-04 and I also prefer higher mileage LR’s to low mileage ones.
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Big D
Discovery II
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Oct 24, 2009 07:30 PM