flanker, I do all of my own work as my experience with wrenches in KC has been uniformly negative. That said, there are numerous import shops in KC and a few that (I've heard) aren't afraid of Discos. Of course, there are two dealers here in the city. If money isn't an issue, you could go to them as I've heard that their Disco mechanics are actually competent... just VERY proud of their work.

All that said, if you decide to do this on your own, I have the RAVE and would be more than happy to lend a hand as I am still trying to learn everything that I can about my Disco.

 

x2 radiator. savannah is all over it (sorry spelled your name wrong ).

 

Pump is done, I pulled the belt off, fan is damaged, I assume we should change the fan clutch as well.... But hey, the radiator is safe.

 

Well that is several Ben Franklins to the good... Fan clutch could have become compromised by water pump wiggling for extended period, and could go next.

 

Ok!!! The I check the belt and it's fine, Also the radiator is clean on the out/side I spend like 3 hrs cleaning that bcz of mud, Now I can see tru just fine.... Fan spind all the way around if the engine is hot/oFF... So Now Im thinking is the fan cluch, is there a way to just leave the fan cluch on all the time? Botte of water wetter already there month ago.. Still the same... Thanks Guys!!!

 

Also my a/c electric fan is not working The brushes are gonne, Need a new fan or new brushes...... I install an aditional electric fan about a year ago with a thermostate that kick in at 208F but it blows slow, not as good as the factory fan.....

 

Fan clutch is only an issue at low speed/high rpm (like sand hogging or rock climbing), or at idle, or in stop & go traffic. If you are trotting down the road at 45 mph the fan does not have a lot of impact, and you can drive without it. That said, you are correct, a hot clutch should not spin by finger power all the way around, or free-wheel. The $49 Chevy clutch in the tech sticky is evaluated for D1s, which share the same water pump. But WP pulley, fan geometry, bolt holes, and radiator spacing could be different. You may need to contact a disamntler or shop around.

Now for new, Rock Auto, one vendor, has the Hayden 2991 (rated for a D2) for about $52. MIght also find that at your local store. They also have two other models.

The option in some distant countries (and our own backwoods in breakdown situations) is to drill two equally spaced holes in the clutch, and screw the front and back sides together. Or some duct tape, panty hose, or whatever you got available. This will make the fan run at 100% of WP shaft speed, providing maximum cooling, and reduced mpg. The fan will eventually separate as it is not designed for this constant high speed, and it will attempt to impale the radiator while it dents or penetrates the hood. So yes, it can get you back from the badlands, but better drive slow, no high rpm.

 

I was thinking since I'm still running 3.54 gears with 35 inch tires, that will make the engine runns hotter at lowes speed and bcz the fan cluch is not working.. U see, Thats what im thinking now.. Im gonna try to trick the fan cluth and if I solve the problem like that, I be buying a new Fan cluch this week!!!! =S..... I will keep u guy's Post on this!!!! Thanks againg =D

 

The Imperial (made by Hayden) 215158 is an extreme clutch, about $56 at Advance Auto and others. Pix shows it on right, stock on left, staggered blade Disco 1 fan.

 

Ok. oK I will check on that tomorrow with advance auto!!!! I hope to fix's that quick!! Thanks Buzz!!!!