If you can't get the old clutch to separate from the fan. Just get the Dorman 620-112 fan blade for 25.00. You should be able to get the 2991 fan clutch & fan blade for 75.00 locally.

 

Best, what do you do to remove water pump gaskets?

 

I just use a razor blade. It takes a little time depending on the gasket, but It comes off eventually. I've used that spray in the past, and I had a wheel I used once as well, but I prefer the razor blade. Hold it at the right angle and the old gasket will flake off.

 

That's what I would have used had I not learned about the Roloc bristle disc. I think I used a razor blade when I helped a neighbor change the water pump on his DII a few years ago.

And another question --- given how much the fan clutch bolts are apparently tightened at the factory, how tightly do you torque them when installing a new fan clutch? I looked but didn't find a torque spec in the RAVE.

And BTW, no need here for drilling or cutting. The $2.17 6mm hex socket did the trick, with the help of a cheater bar on the ratchet handle. Even with that setup it took some bouncing on the cheater bar to crack them loose. I had my foot on the ring around the outside of the fan; I'll inspect it to be sure I didn't crack it in the process.

 

Today's update.

I got everything put back together last night, and this evening I filtered the "old" coolant that I drained to change the pump through a towel and refilled the system. (I'd changed the coolant just two weeks before the water pump leak appeared so I reused it.) I took the truck for a short test drive a few minutes ago and all seems well.

Other than removing the old gasket the most difficult part of the job was removing the inlet hose. After 20+ years it was stuck pretty well to the pump inlet. No biggie, but a little frustrating.

I was delayed a couple days wrapping up the job because when I went to reinstall the belt I found it had an 8" split at one place in its length. That was surprising because the belt was only a little over 2 years old with only 13,500 miles on it. And the belt before that one lasted only 14 months and 7,600 miles. The one prior to that lasted 9 years and 61,000 miles. This may be a topic for a new thread, but I don't know why my truck has eaten the last two belts so quickly.

Here are a couple observations about bleeding the cooling system that I don't recall seeing before. Having now bled the system twice in the last four weeks they're fresh in my mind so I decided to share them here.

As I've said here several times I have never had anything but perfect results bleeding the system. I use the method set out in the RAVE. No problems. No "waterfall" noise. But there are a couple of things to note.

• First, when I first drive the truck after having drained the system and refilling, the UltraGauge shows the temp climbing to over 200°F (and under 210°). But it stays there only a few seconds and then drops back to 188.6°. No biggie, and I don't know why it happens, but it can be alarming if you aren't expecting it.
• Next, after my typical ~10-mile test drive following a refill and bleed, the coolant level in the reservoir is always down a little. Maybe a quart or so. Again, no biggie, but it could be alarming if you aren't expecting it.

 

I found that fan on amazon, according to them it won’t fit... should I just over look that?

im really just wanting a back up fan and clutch.

 

A lot of parts that are on our LR's cross reference to other makes and models from Fords, Chevy's, Hyundai's, KIA, BMW, and even Mitsubishi's.