Water pump replacement question
So I know this is a newbie question, but I've never done a water pump before and I want to make certain I do this right. I have my old water pump out. I've cleaned off the old gasket and now I'm ready to put the new one in.
As I read up on the replacement procedure, I ran into a question that the RAVE didn't really answer. Normally I've read that I should use a thin coat of gasket sealer, however the RAVE doesn't specify anything.
Do I use a sealer when I do this, or is this a case where I should not?
As I read up on the replacement procedure, I ran into a question that the RAVE didn't really answer. Normally I've read that I should use a thin coat of gasket sealer, however the RAVE doesn't specify anything.
Do I use a sealer when I do this, or is this a case where I should not?
Thanks, it went in easy. Of course, I'll be doing it again since the actual leak appears to be the timing belt cover gasket. *sighs* but I'll just chant to myself it is still cheaper than a head gasket, it still cheaper than a head gasket.
I'm leaking a steady stream of coolant from the front, driver's side of the engine. I can't see anything leaking from above with the shroud and fan off, but below I see plenty of coolant leaking. The gasket I'm thinking is bad is called the "Timing Gear Cover Gasket" in the RAVE manual. I'm not certain yet, still trying to pinpoint the exact leak location.
This is an image of what I see from below, and the leak appears to be coming from the front of the oil pan near the part where the black plastic is sticking out... or possibly closer to the bolt head on the side of the engine, just under that wrapped cable.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2054/79881A486AE54133A6D034BFF8062C8F.jpg[/IMG]
This is an image of what I see from below, and the leak appears to be coming from the front of the oil pan near the part where the black plastic is sticking out... or possibly closer to the bolt head on the side of the engine, just under that wrapped cable.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2054/79881A486AE54133A6D034BFF8062C8F.jpg[/IMG]
Never mind, I can see right where it is leaking. With the the fan off and engine running I can see where the coolant is bubbling up off the right side behind the waterpump where the timing cover meets the engine block.
Hey, I think I've got a similar problem. A quick drip off the front driver side of the engine while engine's running and continues to drip until pressure's off. Looks like it's coming out right next to that black tab between the oil pan and the water pump. Did you find it was the water pump or gasket or are you still gettin to the bottom of it?
The leak was the timing cover gasket. When I took it apart mine was deteriorated around both ports near the water pump. Now that mine is back together I don't leak a drop. To do this you'll need to:
1) Drain the oil and radiator
1) remove the fan clutch
2) take off most of the hoses
3) drop the oil pan (on a discovery)
4) remove the crank pulley
5) remove the timing cover and replace the gasket
There is a pretty good post with pictures here on the forum if you search for timing cover. The only real difference is that the post shows a DI, if you have a DII you'll have to drop the oil pan. (The bottom bolts he says to loosen are studs attached to the front cover on a DII)
Things easy to replace at the same time:
o-rings on the oil pickup
sump (oil pan) gasket
water pump gasket
timing cover gasket
timing chain and sprockets
cooling hoses
If you need to use a torque wrench to remove the crank pulley, there isn't much room. I found it easier to put a socket on the flywheel once you pull the oil pan, wedge it against the block, and then get the crank loose with a breaker bar and pipe. This is also how I torqued it back to spec.
1) Drain the oil and radiator
1) remove the fan clutch
2) take off most of the hoses
3) drop the oil pan (on a discovery)
4) remove the crank pulley
5) remove the timing cover and replace the gasket
There is a pretty good post with pictures here on the forum if you search for timing cover. The only real difference is that the post shows a DI, if you have a DII you'll have to drop the oil pan. (The bottom bolts he says to loosen are studs attached to the front cover on a DII)
Things easy to replace at the same time:
o-rings on the oil pickup
sump (oil pan) gasket
water pump gasket
timing cover gasket
timing chain and sprockets
cooling hoses
If you need to use a torque wrench to remove the crank pulley, there isn't much room. I found it easier to put a socket on the flywheel once you pull the oil pan, wedge it against the block, and then get the crank loose with a breaker bar and pipe. This is also how I torqued it back to spec.
Last edited by Jawbox; Mar 10, 2009 at 03:23 PM.
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