My next option is to just take my truck to the Lube place and have them hook up one of there machines and suck everything out, and force it all back in. at this point the $80 might be worth it.

Hopefully that will get my heater working again.

 

It is amazing how many wrong was there are posted on how to do the proper bleeding of a D2.
You only bleed the engine when stone cold, not warm or hot, not with the engine running or the cap off and running.
Remove the bleed screw, do not just loosen it, fill thru the coolant bottle using the proper amount of coolant and water, 50/50, and add coolant till you get a steady stream of coolant coming from the open bleed screw hole. Once you have coolant coming out, replace the bleed screw, then the coolant cap, start the engine, turn both heaters to full hot and allow the engine to idle up to operating temp, where when hot the heater should now be running warm at idle, if not, you still have air in the system and will need to let the engine cool down and re-bleed one more time. Never rev up the engine, trying to get the engine hotter quicker or the coolant surge on a full coolant bottle can pop a line.
I usually always suggest that the next morning, before cold starting the engine, check and top off the coolant bottle for any loss and check it again around a week later, always when cold not warm or hot or the level will not be accurate.

 

Mike--

Alan Slightom from Indianapolis. Have done the bleed twice to get rid of the sound behind the glovebox. Still have it. Should I bleed a 3rd time? Have been to a trusted shop (not Land Rover, but great people) and they tested for exhaust gases in the coolant, none found. No coolant leaks, but I still have the water sound, when I accelerate from a light after a stop.
Your help would be great again. Had your phone #, but my cell phone died and took the number with it.
alanslightom@mac.com is my e-mail. Thanks!!

 

Thanks Mike,

I followed your instructions and the water sloshing sound is now gone...

A very easy fix to a very annoying sound.

Also, I'm going to do the CV boots on my D2 2004 4.0 / 117,000kms. Should I just change over the CV joints at the same time, since it's all got to come out anyway?

Re the CV joints, any after market brand/s that are better than others? I can't hear any noises or feel any slack - how can you tell if they need changing?


thanks.