Water Temp

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#31

11-23-2011, 02:29 PM

twaszak

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Join Date: Oct 2010

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Quote:

Originally Posted by borchera

RAVE state the following regarding driving in colder climates:

"In cold ambient temperatures, the engine temperature is raised by approximately 10°C (50°F) to compensate for the
heat loss of 10% exposure to the cold coolant returning from the bottom hose"

I believe your temperature increase is by design,......

I interpret the Rave manual excerpt you reference differently. The key word being compensate. When ambient temps are cold enough to make returning coolant so cold that it cools the engine below its optimal operating temperature range, the engine temperature is raised to compensate for the colder coolant entering the engine. The combination of the raised engine temperature and the returning colder coolant results in the engine being able to maintain optimal engine operating temps even when it's extremely cold outside. The optimal engine operating temp and exiting coolant temps are the same regardless if it's below freezing or 80 degrees F outside. Optimal exiting engine coolant temps remain the same regardless of how cold or warm it is outside. Ergo, an engine coolant reading of 206 is always too high etc.

Cheers,

Thomas

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#32

11-24-2011, 09:22 AM

DiscoWest

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Join Date: May 2009

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Hay

You should consider the In-Line Thermostat Mod. There are lots of threads on this topic to review.

I'm pretty sure I had a bad thermostat from new. About 10 months ago, I had some hose leaks. I changed the thermostat at the same time. I then started to feel it was running hot and changed the radiator and fan clutch. It was still running hot, especially at idle. My truck never over heated but was running hotter that 212 degF as the aux fan was running most of the time. It was alarming how hard the hoses were. I keep expecting them to burst. Occasionally, the pressure cap would dump some coolant overboard. At first I didn't suspect the thermostat because it was new, but everything pointed to the thermostat restricting the flow.

I purchased a scan guage to confirm the temperatures, and yes it was running hotter than 212 deg F. Since I got the Scan Guage I have kept it pretty much plugged in the whole time.

About 7 months ago, I did the in-line Thermostat mod with a 180 deg C chevy thermostat. Since then I have been running between 82 to 90 deg C (179 to 194 deg F), regardless of outside temperature, engine load, etc. The only exception was this summer when it was really hot, I was fully loaded up with gear, and heading up some very long steep hills in BC, the temperature gradually rose to 97 degC. The temp came right back down again on the down hill.

Anyway, I think this mod works well and simplifies the cooling system. There are some that don't agree but I'm pretty happy with it.

If you use the hose adapter with the sight glass it is very easy to tell if you still have some air trapped. I followed the standard bleeding procedure mentioned on this forum. A few days later I still had a bit of air in the sight glass. I then used a coolant pressure test kit to push out the remaining air. That made it very quick and easy to do. No air ever since. It made me wonder how many on this forum still have a bunch of air trapped in the upper hose, but because they dont have a site glass are unaware.

Now that's just crazy talk, what could possibly be the appeal of stable and safe engine temps in a disco? It's much more entertaining to wonder when it's going to leave you stranded on the side of the road with steam pouring out from under the hood, just the way the great engineers at land rover intended. Why would you want to reengineer something so well thought out as the cooling system, or the abs module, or the sunroof drains on a disco? They are perfect as is