I'm going to order a Precision Universal Joint from Rock Auto (Part #: 344) for my rear propshaft. I do not have a bench or a press. Just very basic tools. Its a real pain in the *** to fit a u-joint into the shaft piece so any pointers would be appreciated. Also does it matter which way the u-joint is installed?

 

The u-joint should be installed so that during normal driving the zerk is being "pushed" by the shaft and not "pulled". Basically if the "hinge" on the transfer case side is looked at in the vertical position, and it spins spins counter-clockwise, you want the zerk on the left side top (or right side bottom). The opposite is true if it spins clockwise. This is also only true for u-joints with the zerk between caps in the corner area. joints with end cap zerks can go however you'd like.

I'm not sure of the spin direction of the rear shaft but I believe it spins counter-clockwise.

As far as removal and installation, go to the local parts store and rent a ball joint press. Its basically a glorified C clamp. You can rent them for free (assuming you return it in the required amount of time). You can also use a hammer but this can easily damage your new joint during reassembly and tends to be more of a pain than just taking a quick drive to your local parts store.

 

You need a good sized socket, 3/4" I think, and a sledgehammer. Might want to invest in a set of snap-ring pliers, but needle nose pliers will probably work if you already have them. Bench vise will probably make the job easier, but is by no means necessary. And no, it doesn't matter how the new U-joint goes in. Just be careful of the grease fittings.

 

I used a 3/4 socket & hammer & rebuilt both propshafts and center ball in a afternoon .

 

Alright so how to I use a ball joint press to install the u-joint? Is the goal to compress both ends of the u-joint at the same time with the press?

 

You push the joint all the way to one side then the cap should come off...turn it around and do the other side and you'll have the joint out.

 

In the driveline business, we use horseshoe shaped tools to press on the two exposed u-joint journal ends to avoid shoving one of the journal caps through to the inside of the yoke. If you have a welder and some square bar stock on hand, you can make one in a jiff. Either way, the aforementioned method will work, just be sure that when you're pushing the second journal cap through the hole that it is straight. Sometimes the cap will catch on the wall of the yoke and gouge it a good bit if it's not straight on the way out. Hope this helps!