I agree with Mike, don't wait swap it out immediately don't wait for something bad to happen that's stupid.

 

Since we're all offering opinions - pull the shaft, crack the pumpkin and see what you find in there.

(That's what she said)

 

Sure that would end the "debate", but then you need to have a replacement on hand just in case, you dont want to pull it apart, find out there is a problem and then have to put it back together so you can drive it to work the next day with the "bad" part.

I say let sleeping dogs lie.

 

I suppose that this could be another excuse to purchase a "snake camera" from Harbor freight, drain the fluid, and have a peek. Then you'll know a lot more about what the current status is. Possible buckled widget, four bolt heads popped off, and fluid that was overheated and darker. Maybe look at the teeth as well to see if those bolt heads have been chewed up.

Boneyard near me gets $149 for an axle, disk to disk.

It is great that Harbor Freight is almost always near one of SWMBO's favorite places to eat out......

 

those inspection camera can bee pretty cheap when on sale at HF, with the 20% off coupon I think I paid $80 or so. has more than paid for its self in the last year

 

OK... sorry to open up the debate again, but I'm still searching for answers. Also, just to clear up inaccuracies, it was 3 bolts I found. Additionally, the fluid was darker, but not dark or burnt. It was the same exact difference in my 00 when I changed it the first time. Front was darkest, center was lighter, rear was lightest.
So, as to the questions:
1. Has anyone seen this before?
2. Any thoughts or ideas on how it would happen? Looking at the crown bolts I just don't see a way for those to go.
3. How difficult is it to get these out? Is an impact gun 100% needed? Would both truck have to be on jack stands? I could swap it out of the 00 I have... but still skeptical about putting one in with double the miles on it (140K vs 76K).
4. Being a NOOB to diff rebuilds in general, if I just wanted a "rebuild" of it from a 4x4 or driveline type shop, would that be recommended? Thoughts on cost? I just think a boneyard diff would be a bigger gamble than the one in there now or my 00.
5. Why do I like these trucks again?

 

IMHO most are in the boneyard for engine issues. You can drain oil in boneyard and look for metal in fluid (if boneyard has not already drained the diff). The problem with a DIY rebuild is that this is not a seal, it may be warped parts that would require replacement. But with other vehicles, you will have the flexibility that some others might not have. The overhaul is in the RAVE, shows the specialty tools used, etc.

 

If you're concerned about the job of swapping the diff from the 00 - You're definitely not going to have any interest in rebuilding the 3rd member(The differential you can just pull out). That's a way more annoying job setting the gears. I've got a friend who does it for a living - when I've gone for regears, I always just bring'em to him. I have no interest to learn how to do it, I've drawn the line.

Gearsets aren't rocket science. They spin, and wear very slowly if setup properly. I would have no issue putting in a 3rd member with 200k miles on it. Before I would, I would look at how all the teeth mesh and how worn it looks. No broken teeth, no obvious signs of distress - I'd throw it right in and not give it a second thought. If it's not broken in 140k miles, a diff will probably go for quite some time. As others have said here prior, they don't go to the junkyard for a diff...

Gearsets that are setup properly will generally only be a problem with shock loading - i.e. no traction, full throttle to full traction causing an immediate contact of torque...

I'd pull the diff. Check it out. See if these sheered bolts ARE from your current differential, which we all would suspect is true. Whatever mileage is on the other diff, it's in better condition than one with sheared bolts.

Dave

 

So my question goes to actually pulling the diff now, and sorry for my stupidity on this. I'm confused to if I need to actually pull out the entire axle, or if I unhook the front prop shaft, undue the bolts from the back of the diff, separate the sealing material, and literally pull the diff out of the front axle. Looking at the sticky on the site about the removal looks like you pull the entire axle, but the Rave looked different to me.
Big question here: I remember people here saying that my front prop shaft would swap from my 00 to my 04, but not vice versa. Being the 00 is destined to be a parts truck, or sold as such, could I Just pull out the front prop shaft and diff and swap? The 04 has the stock one, where I put a greasable one on the 00 about 2 years ago as preventative, and it would at least save me the money of buying another one.

 

As for how they got sheared, if previous owner ran with low fluid, overheated and warped it.... then you won't be able to rebuild it easily either. The fact that it has kept going is a tribute to just how tough certain parts of these vehicles are. And it might keep going, and if you have towing coverage.....