Currently running Terrafirma HD springs. Rear left is sagging 2.5 inches compared to the front, and rear right is 1" lower than the front.

Center of wheel to fender arch
21.5" front
19" rear left
20.5" rear right

Are RTE 3" the way to go?

I read that you can use D1 rear spring mounts to gain ~0.5". So I ordered those.

TF does not make the 2" spacers anymore.

Can the use of a spring compressor damage the spring?

 

I think RTE would be the way to go, I just got some, however once I checked the actual spring #'s I have 3inch rear springs with 2inch front springs. I'll probably have to get some 1inch spacers for the front to even it out.

 

RTE is the way to go. I would recommend 3" just because it opens up many options for bumpers and tire size. I've had 2" and 3" RTE coils and they have always performed flawlessly.

 

Spring compressor would damage the finish, but shouldn't damage the finish itself. That said, I wouldn't use one. There's no need on the Disco not to mention they're sketchy as frig. People have died from them, even using them correctly.

You're right on the D1 spring bases. I have them on my D2 also. I think I got mine from Paul Grant.

 

I've never been able to come even close to installing springs without a compressor. I use an impact gun and compress them a solid 3-5"

Had a quick chat with Simon @ RTE, but he was on vacation and lost signal. Apparently the springs in the 4" lift kit are different than the 3" springs they sell separately. He mentioned you either need a cranked watts or rear panhard to run them... AND castor corrected rear arms. I've never heard of castor corrected rear arms. Anyway I'll talk to him further on Tuesday.
I'd really like to do the rear panhard. It would be nice to get rid of those expensive watts bushings. Just have to figure out logistically how to pull out the watts and then take it to the welder. Or find a different offroad specialty welding shop to do it all.

 

Have you watched the Lucky 8 video? Pretty simple to do, even on jack stands which is how I did mine. You'll just need 2 jacks. One floor jack and one bottle jack. The bottle jack will go between the frame and the axle to push it down and get the springs in and out after disconnecting the shocks. I lifted 3.5" that way.

The castor corrected arms are a good idea, but not necessary. Again, I'm on 3.5". I don't have the corrected arms and my truck does fine at 75mph. Steering is a little more twitchy, but otherwise no issues.

Panhard conversion is a great idea no matter what. I'm going to be jumping into mine in a few days most likely.

 

I recall trying it that way before and I couldn't get it to work. I'll try it again next time.

to clarify, are you talking about front or rear castor corrected arms? I already have corrected fronts. It was the rears I was confused about.

Please do start a thread on your panhard conversion. I'd like to see the parts used and where you put the brackets.

 

I slap the LR Bottle Jack on the flat bumpstop plate on the axle. Then I pump the jack a few times & using a small pry bar (on 3inch springs) they pop right into place. 2inch springs just pop in without the use of a prybar. Just make absolutely sure to remove the rear brake line bracket & disconnect the ABS connectors.

 

Ill definitely be throwing up a write up with pictures after its done. I had the fortune of having a parts truck previously, so I'm actually using all stock parts.