What kind of springs?Thinking about 3" RTE Springs, Anyone have them?
what other geometry changes are required for 3"?
I'm looking at an OME setup...I already have extended brake lines, just need to solder in some ABS sensors now... Just curious about the geometry stuff though.
Will stock rear driveshaft be fine (with rotoflex)?
What about trailing arms, etc.?
I'm looking at an OME setup...I already have extended brake lines, just need to solder in some ABS sensors now... Just curious about the geometry stuff though.
Will stock rear driveshaft be fine (with rotoflex)?
What about trailing arms, etc.?
Lucky8 4.5'' Springs Vs. RTE 3" Springs
I heard that the RTE runs about 4" and you have to use spacers to even the truck out because they use D1 rears. How does L8 compare to this? Direct swap and I get 4.5" of lift with no bs?
Most people can run a 3" with no problem Primus. Steering geometry should be fine and the pinion angles should be good for the roto and not bad for the front diff.
I heard that the RTE runs about 4" and you have to use spacers to even the truck out because they use D1 rears. How does L8 compare to this? Direct swap and I get 4.5" of lift with no bs?
Most people can run a 3" with no problem Primus. Steering geometry should be fine and the pinion angles should be good for the roto and not bad for the front diff.
Last edited by Dane!; Apr 16, 2014 at 11:33 AM.
few things good to-do w/3
castor correction.
space crossmember.
i'd dump rf with 3" due to new angle
adjustable panhard to center axle
btw you can just butt splice some extensions the abs and heat shrink (i'm running low voltage HD wire in the front). my extended ss brake lines are not long enough, imo.(going to have to rig up extensions)
on a truck that is just over 3" and has mild articulation.
castor correction.
space crossmember.
i'd dump rf with 3" due to new angle
adjustable panhard to center axle
btw you can just butt splice some extensions the abs and heat shrink (i'm running low voltage HD wire in the front). my extended ss brake lines are not long enough, imo.(going to have to rig up extensions)
on a truck that is just over 3" and has mild articulation.
Last edited by dusty1; Apr 16, 2014 at 11:42 AM.
few things good to-do w/3
castor correction.
space crossmember.
i'd dump rf with 3" due to new angle
adjustable panhard to center axle
btw you can just butt splice some extensions the abs and heat shrink (i'm running low voltage HD wire in the front). my extended ss brake lines are not long enough, imo.(going to have to rig up extensions)
castor correction.
space crossmember.
i'd dump rf with 3" due to new angle
adjustable panhard to center axle
btw you can just butt splice some extensions the abs and heat shrink (i'm running low voltage HD wire in the front). my extended ss brake lines are not long enough, imo.(going to have to rig up extensions)
The RTE 3in spring will make the D2 sit about 4.5 inches. The TF kit maybe better suited for your 3in needs.
Lucky8 4.5'' Springs Vs. RTE 3" Springs
I heard that the RTE runs about 4" and you have to use spacers to even the truck out because they use D1 rears. How does L8 compare to this? Direct swap and I get 4.5" of lift with no bs?
Most people can run a 3" with no problem Primus. Steering geometry should be fine and the pinion angles should be good for the roto and not bad for the front diff.
I heard that the RTE runs about 4" and you have to use spacers to even the truck out because they use D1 rears. How does L8 compare to this? Direct swap and I get 4.5" of lift with no bs?
Most people can run a 3" with no problem Primus. Steering geometry should be fine and the pinion angles should be good for the roto and not bad for the front diff.
no spacers on mine....got to luv the internet


