I know there are many threads about O2 sensors for our trucks but I'm feeling lazy plus after 5+ years on this and other LR forums I don't recall these specific questions being addressed.

I have used the Bosch 15175 pre-cat sensors but the most recent failure came after ~38,000 miles, which seems poor to me. I've always used the Bosch since it's a Bosch engine management system on the DII. What do you use? What's been your experience? Advance Auto now lists an NTK 25623 for the DII. They still sell the Bosch 15175s but they no longer show it "fitting" the DII. Weird. Have you had better luck with the NTK, Densos or some other brand?

How about your other vehicles? We have Hondas and a Lexus and we've never yet had to replace O2s in any of them. Are the O2s used in the DII just that much more fickle?

Similarly, I've had a bad O2 out of the box and so has a friend of mine here. Same question -- are the O2s used in the DII just that much more fickle?

 

No one? Have any of you tried the $19 O2s being sold on eBay?

 

What codes are you getting? If they are lean/rich mixture codes it's probably not the O2 sensors causing it.

As far as I can tell the Bosch sensors are OE for try D2.

I've replaced 3 sensors in 3 different Hondas, but I've owned more than I can remember, so it's still a pretty good record.

In a 1993, I put an aftermarket Bosch plug and play sensor because I couldn't get the OE NTK aftermarket and the dealer version was crazy money. It worked fine and fixed a huge drivability issue known to those cars. (It didn't have an O2 sensor code, it had a code for low fuel pressure or something.)

In an 1998 and a 2005 I replaced sensors for codes that specifically said the sensors were bad. Same deal Bosch sensors, but for the 2005 it was an OE NTK sensor in a Bosch box, because they probably didn't make a compatible wide band O2 sensor at the time.

But back to your issue, if you get lean codes on a d2 it's almost always something else like a vacuum leak.

 

Just bought a 04 D2. It was kicking an off a bank 1 code. Atlantic British recommends changing them at 90,000 miles so I decided to change all four and bought four from eBay. Three of the four came out very easy but the left rear stripped the threads when I came out. I was able to get a thread chaser and fix the threads and install the new sensor. After changing all four the vehicle was throwing more faults than before. WTF! It appeared I had not fully plugged in one of the sensors since I had zero voltage. Found I hadn't got one of the plugs pushed in all the way So I thought I fixed the problem and was still getting errors then I found that one of the wires on two of the front plugs we're not seated in the plug. I thought okay there's my problem seated the wires plugged it back in still had issues. Plugged in old sensor and everything worked fine. I noticed that the black and gray wires were reversed on the new plugs compared to the old plugs so I swap them over everything seems be working fine now. The rear sensors were wired correctly. I guess you get what you pay for. Since it would sometimes take a few days for the engine light to come on after resetting even with the old sensors I have to wait and see if I get a check engine light again in the near future. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I now got to figure out where the dreaded tick is coming from when the engine warms up. It comes and goes even after it's warm and definitely sounds like a lifter or rocker arm but maybe it's a slip to sleeve. Sound is coming from the top rt front cylinders.
Other than that it seems to run great.

 

About those $19 ebay sensors.. picked up 2 to replace the front 02s, as I was getting p0134 and p0154 codes. swapped them 7 weeks ago and I still get the codes along with p0300 and p0304.

 

Won't use Bosch. Seems no matter what they get put in I have problems.


I have had the best results with NTK sensors in Rovers, BMW, Porsche...etc.


I think they are only like $50 each for the DII.

 

Put 80 miles on today and no O2 sensor codes. Did have the return of P0734 4th gear ratio code. Not sure what that's about yet.

 

That code means maf.

 

I recently bought this:
and it got rid of my CEL plus smoke and idle vibration I was having. Quite happy with it.

 

I have a bosch engine so I use bosch sensors. You just have to remember that when your ecu was originally tuned, it was tuned to the bosch settings. Unless the ecu in your truck has been custom tuned to aftermarket parts your are using the truck will not run to it's best performance unless you use original equipment.