What to replace along with Head Gasket
Got a new to me 2001 Disco II with a blown head gasket and purchased the kit with bolts from Atlantic British, new plugs and wires, fluids and some oil filters. Wondering what else I should try to do at the same time. I'm thinking of doing the coolant hoses and therm but maybe at a later date. Also need to decide if I'm going to switch off the orange coolant for green and switch from the synthetic oil that it was using.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
It's a great time to replace your coil packs because you will be "in there" to make it convenient.
More important, however, is to have your heads decked by a machine shop. Often, head gaskets will blow because the heads warped a bit, first. A new head gasket and all of your trouble to change it out won't magically fix warped heads, so get them decked to avoid redoing your work all over again.
Do whatever you can to ensure that you have a working thermostat. Many new units are dead on arrival.
Overheating will blow head gaskets again.
More important, however, is to have your heads decked by a machine shop. Often, head gaskets will blow because the heads warped a bit, first. A new head gasket and all of your trouble to change it out won't magically fix warped heads, so get them decked to avoid redoing your work all over again.
Do whatever you can to ensure that you have a working thermostat. Many new units are dead on arrival.
Overheating will blow head gaskets again.
Actually, check your heads for warpage. Theres a way to tell, use it.
What else can actually warp your heads is unbolting them the wrong way.
Do not use a whizz wheel to clean the surfaces, use a scraper and do it with care.
You might want to think about the front cover, waterpump, ps pump, oil pan, exhaust gaskets while you're there.
I find it better to remove the exhaust manifolds from the head instead if the pipe. Once you remove both sides, the exhaust, just sinks down a few inches and sits there.
CLEAN YOUR HEAD BOLT HOLES IN THE BLOCK.
Dont leave fluids in them.
Dont use cheap RTV. Buy ultra black or the equivalent. Not just some black RTV.
Assembly lube. Rub it on every metal rubbing part.
Pay attention to the oiler holes in your rockers, clean them out so you dont develop a ticking noise.
Keep your pushrods in order. Take a block of wood and drill two rows of eight so you can keep them in order.
When you remove a part, look it over for cracks or damage. Inspect. Look at how it mounts, cracks in holes, plastic parts, cracks, stress, threads, dirt.
Tape your bolts, screws back into their respective holes so you dont confuse bolt sizes, lengths and put the wrong bolt in the wrong place.
Clean everything. When I do a head job, I have the parts washer right next to me and a case of brakekleen. I take the oil pan off, or remove the drain plug. Anything that falls into the valley gets washed down and out the motor.
Once I put the heads on I pour a quart or two of new, (cheap) oil down the head, to lube parts and also to wash out any garbage. I do this over the lifters when I put the intake on. It all goes in and then out the pan instead of damaging.
Once you fill the crankcase and start it, immediately change the oil and filter. When I do heads I buy a cheap filter and some cheap oil, as well as the filter I'm going to use and my rotella.
If you have that notion that you've dropped a bolt into an engine...stop and look for it, dont quit until you do. Dont ask me how I know. I've learned to trust my instincts.
Come here and ask questions. If you have a thought...act on it.
And finally, when you get it all buttoned up and your temp rises it's not a bad thermostat, you have air somewhere in the cooling system. No, motorads are not garbage they actually work really well as your temp gauge is not always your thermostat temp. Air can cause you to pull your hair out but keep trying. 201-210 is not a scary temp, it's normal when purging air...now if it starts climbing to 240-250...you better check things. Unless you own an 04. When those suckers want to blow...they blow.
What else can actually warp your heads is unbolting them the wrong way.
Do not use a whizz wheel to clean the surfaces, use a scraper and do it with care.
You might want to think about the front cover, waterpump, ps pump, oil pan, exhaust gaskets while you're there.
I find it better to remove the exhaust manifolds from the head instead if the pipe. Once you remove both sides, the exhaust, just sinks down a few inches and sits there.
CLEAN YOUR HEAD BOLT HOLES IN THE BLOCK.
Dont leave fluids in them.
Dont use cheap RTV. Buy ultra black or the equivalent. Not just some black RTV.
Assembly lube. Rub it on every metal rubbing part.
Pay attention to the oiler holes in your rockers, clean them out so you dont develop a ticking noise.
Keep your pushrods in order. Take a block of wood and drill two rows of eight so you can keep them in order.
When you remove a part, look it over for cracks or damage. Inspect. Look at how it mounts, cracks in holes, plastic parts, cracks, stress, threads, dirt.
Tape your bolts, screws back into their respective holes so you dont confuse bolt sizes, lengths and put the wrong bolt in the wrong place.
Clean everything. When I do a head job, I have the parts washer right next to me and a case of brakekleen. I take the oil pan off, or remove the drain plug. Anything that falls into the valley gets washed down and out the motor.
Once I put the heads on I pour a quart or two of new, (cheap) oil down the head, to lube parts and also to wash out any garbage. I do this over the lifters when I put the intake on. It all goes in and then out the pan instead of damaging.
Once you fill the crankcase and start it, immediately change the oil and filter. When I do heads I buy a cheap filter and some cheap oil, as well as the filter I'm going to use and my rotella.
If you have that notion that you've dropped a bolt into an engine...stop and look for it, dont quit until you do. Dont ask me how I know. I've learned to trust my instincts.
Come here and ask questions. If you have a thought...act on it.
And finally, when you get it all buttoned up and your temp rises it's not a bad thermostat, you have air somewhere in the cooling system. No, motorads are not garbage they actually work really well as your temp gauge is not always your thermostat temp. Air can cause you to pull your hair out but keep trying. 201-210 is not a scary temp, it's normal when purging air...now if it starts climbing to 240-250...you better check things. Unless you own an 04. When those suckers want to blow...they blow.
Def get the dex out. Prolly want to flush heater core and rad to make sure it's out. X2 on oil pump/gears, clean everything up, lube everything up b/f you close it up, plugs and wires, maybe oil temp sensor.
I went to the yard and bought a bunch for $5. Disassembled, brakekleen, soaked in trans fluid, reassembled, chose the best ones with no wear and installed. Everythings real nice and smooth.
Thanks for all the suggestions! Trying to find the sweet spot of how much money to put into this Rover as I'm just going to be driving it a short distance to some land I own for camping. Gonna check into decking and was planning on making sure they're true. Will do a flush of cooling system and will price out any other repairs to go with this at the same time. Next will be taking a look at drive shaft and hopefully this inexpensive Rover will give me a couple years.
Thanks for all the suggestions! Trying to find the sweet spot of how much money to put into this Rover as I'm just going to be driving it a short distance to some land I own for camping. Gonna check into decking and was planning on making sure they're true. Will do a flush of cooling system and will price out any other repairs to go with this at the same time. Next will be taking a look at drive shaft and hopefully this inexpensive Rover will give me a couple years.
That's easy....all of it, lol.


