Yeah, that'll test your capacity for dealing with a bad situation... Wow indeed. That's a weekend wrecker.

 

At least in the rears, you can remove the x4 bearing bolts and the caliper bolts and take the whole axle out as last resort...Time and $$

You can't get the rotor off with the caliper on, and you can't get the caliper off with the wheel on...

Sometimes I have used oxy torch on wheel nuts, just to get them hot, not to burn them off....

 

Believe me, I tried everything like that but I just couldn't get to the back of anything that would help. Now I can't even remember if it was a front or rear wheel.

 

It was probably cross-threaded into place with an impact gun. Then corroded for good measure. The force required to turn it overcame the binding for of the stud to the hub.

 

This is a lesson for all. I always use anti seize on the lugs and mating surface on my wheels. When I bought mine and I needed to remove the wheel, it would not separate from the hub. I ended up having to use a gearpuller with a lot of swearing to get it off.

 

Finally got all of the lugs off but unfortunately all the wheels are fused on. Tried using the spare to bang it loose, as well as the weight of the truck - no dice.

I’m sure tire shops see this kind of thing all the time... how much could they possibly charge for a tire rotation?

 

You can try spraying some PB Blaster in on the hub (remove the decorative cap), as well as through the spokes of the wheel to soak the mating surface where the wheel meets the rotor. Then alternate hitting it side to side and top to bottom with a rubber mallet. If you don't have one then a piece of firewood, length of 4X4, etc. Eventually it will start to rock back and forth in one of those directions, and ultimately you should be able to take over with your hands to dismount the wheel.

 

Yep, I sprayed some on each of the hubs so I can revisit it in the next few days and have anti seize ready for when they finally come off.