It's up to you. Some people get hubs on Ebay and it works out great, others it doesn't. For as many bad hubs as I've gotten from Atlantic British (not their fault, they're just trying to have ANY hubs available right now) I'm glad I went through a proper parts house that will easily warranty out a bad hub and replace it without any fuss.

 

Chasing a possible bad sensor on the RR on my ‘00 Disco, and with a recent purchase of a Nanocom, can anyone give me the proper readings for input signal for the sensors for the Nanocom?
3 amigos come on, then go away then back, etc, etc, etc. Driving me crazy.

Though my mental instability should be expected because I OWN a ‘00 Disco. 😉

Thanks!

 

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Brandon318, how do you determine a bad hub? I recently replaced my front hubs with ones from LRDirect and have the same issue of low voltage at front left. Is this the indicator of a bad hub? I have cleaned the connection point and checked the wiring back to SLABS. What else can I be checking to determine the cause of this fault. I was just going to replace the sensor, but now you have me wondering about the hub. They were Britpart hubs.

 

For me it was just a process of elimination. The ABS system is pretty simple in its ingredients. So after I made sure the wire had continuity, and that the SLABS unit wasn't faulty, the only thing left was the hub itself. I think the final total was 7 bad hubs before getting one that worked. Still working and haven't seen an ABS code since. I hate that this is the current parts landscape right now. Really makes troubleshooting difficult when you can't rely on a new part being good.

 

I don't have that data for you, but I will say that based on the experience of me and others here the ABS sensor connectors are often the problem. Some cut out the connectors and replace them with heat-shrink butt connectors. I replaced the right rear connector with new waterproof connectors (linked below).



When my truck had a left front sensor fault I replaced the connector but that didn't cure the fault. I next removed the connector from the SLABS, trying to figure out how to remove the pins from it in order to run a new, long-lead, splice-free cable from the sensor to the SLABS. I never did figure out how to do that, but when I reconnected the SLABS connector after cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner the fault disappeared.

The moral of the story -- ABS sensor faults can be caused by any "weak link" in the circuit, including not only the connections from the sensor to the harness near the wheel, but the connection at SLABS too.