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Wheels hard to remove

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  #11  
Old 02-02-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ZGPhoto
You live in canada and haven't had new tires on in 3 year? What about snow to summer?
In the 4 years we've had it, we haven't needed snow tires yet. The wife and I are both retired, so if the weather gets bad, we have the luxury of just staying home.

If the roads were bad and we absolutely had to go out, we also had a winter beater Nissan Pathfinder with a plow blade and good winter tires on it.

Now that we've moved from semi-suburban Newfoundland to rural Nova Scotia and no longer have the Pathfinder (bought back by Nissan after a front suspension tower rust issue recall), we'll be looking at snow tires for next winter.
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-2013, 07:17 PM
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Tef-Gel gets used on all dissimilar metal connections on all military vehicles because of corrosion from sea-water (per DCMA requirements). IMO either that or a good slathering of anti-sieze is the way to go.
 
  #13  
Old 02-04-2013, 12:06 PM
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Make sure you have center caps to help keep the exposure of the rim to rotor connection to a minimum, use grease or never seize inside the rim, and make sure you rotate the tires every 6,000 miles or less and you should have no problems.
 
  #14  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:58 PM
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Forget about all that liquid stuff that helps free up tires from the hub. Get a 2x4 about 1ft long and a sledge hammer at least a 3 pound one. Put the 2x4 on the edge of the rim near the tire and beat it off. You will need to start on one side and go left to right and up and down in a cross pattern on the edge of the rim. This will work. I keep a 2x4 and a sledge hammer with me at all times cause I've had this happen a lot and it will not damage your rims.
 
  #15  
Old 02-04-2013, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jhill15
Forget about all that liquid stuff that helps free up tires from the hub.
Really? I had a P38 that was missing 2 center caps and was used in the winter in New England (lots of salt) and after I bought it I had to use a hammer to get the wheels without the caps off. I cleaned up the mating surfaces, added a little never-seize and after that the wheels practically fell off whenever I loosened the lug nuts. On my DII, I have never had an issue pulling a wheel off by using the same approach. I think I'll stick with the never seize and leave the hammer at home in the toolbox.
 
  #16  
Old 02-04-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 04duxlr
Really? I had a P38 that was missing 2 center caps and was used in the winter in New England (lots of salt) and after I bought it I had to use a hammer to get the wheels without the caps off. I cleaned up the mating surfaces, added a little never-seize and after that the wheels practically fell off whenever I loosened the lug nuts. On my DII, I have never had an issue pulling a wheel off by using the same approach. I think I'll stick with the never seize and leave the hammer at home in the toolbox.
Worth a shot, lots of salt here too, I will try the never sieze out, maybe I can ditch the hammer.Sounds a lot easier than beating the tire off.
 
  #17  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:01 AM
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well antiseize is the why to keep it from happening,AGAIN.

The easiest way I found to get the wheel off was to lossen to lugnuts a 1/2 turn make a figure 8 to the right and one to the left. pulled back in the driveway and the wheels came off on my dII and my RRC.

*Note I did not say drive it down the highway at 70 mph nor did i say you to take the lugs off and go to McDonalds to get lunch*.
 
  #18  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:12 AM
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well antiseize is the why to keep it from happening, the easiest way I found to get the wheel off was to losen to lugnuts a 1/2 turn make a figure 8 to the right and one to the left. pulled back in the driveway and the wheels came off on my dII and my RRC.
*Note I did not say drive it down the highway at 70 mph nor did i tell you to take the lugs off and go to McDonalds to get lunch*.
 
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