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Where to find "Heavy Duty" Shuttle Valve

Old Jan 15, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ebg18t
What did you do?
Alternator tested good at both places I had it tested, but I replaced it anyways since I have a lifetime warranty, saw no reason not to since I already had it removed, and while installing that we unbolted and cleaned/checked/modified a few of the major ground points.

It runs about 13.8 at idle with no lights on, and about 13.2 or so with the HID headlamps, the four rear facing lights on my rack, and six 135w Hella lights turned on all at the same time at idle.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 02:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Street Wolf
Alternator tested good at both places I had it tested, but I replaced it anyways since I have a lifetime warranty, saw no reason not to since I already had it removed, and while installing that we unbolted and cleaned/checked/modified a few of the major ground points.

It runs about 13.8 at idle with no lights on, and about 13.2 or so with the HID headlamps, the four rear facing lights on my rack, and six 135w Hella lights turned on all at the same time at idle.
So back to your shuttle valve switch code. If you already have the "B" fix from Josh's sticky, then its likely that the switch themselves have gone bad. A lot of times they test good, and so people just fix that wiring problem.

Mine tested good, but they were covered in brake fluid. So I replaced the seals and also the switches. You might need to go in there again and test the switch. Or you might need to make sure that whatever that external ground you picked is good.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Street Wolf
Alternator tested good at both places I had it tested, but I replaced it anyways since I have a lifetime warranty, saw no reason not to since I already had it removed, and while installing that we unbolted and cleaned/checked/modified a few of the major ground points.

It runs about 13.8 at idle with no lights on, and about 13.2 or so with the HID headlamps, the four rear facing lights on my rack, and six 135w Hella lights turned on all at the same time at idle.
Do you have a diagram of the major ground points?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 02:17 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ebg18t
Do you have a diagram of the major ground points?
Sorry, I do not. The Rave manual has a 'decent' enough amount of information to find what you need however.






......but back to the whole three amigos shuttle valve thing. I have a brand new Wabco shuttle valve switch sitting on my desk now, and when installing it I should still modify it and do the "Option B"?
 

Last edited by Street Wolf; Jan 18, 2012 at 02:20 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Street Wolf
......but back to the whole three amigos shuttle valve thing. I have a brand new Wabco shuttle valve switch sitting on my desk now, and when installing it I should still modify it and do the "Option B"?
That's what I did with mine.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Isn't the whole point of doing "option B" is the bypass/eliminate of svs circuit board which is not replaceable? My take on this is to do the option B fix plus the Falcon works over haul kit....thoughts??? If the svs circuit board part is available as part then you pretty much overhaul the whole ABS unit...I think...
 

Last edited by agthird; Jan 18, 2012 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Street Wolf
......but back to the whole three amigos shuttle valve thing. I have a brand new Wabco shuttle valve switch sitting on my desk now, and when installing it I should still modify it and do the "Option B"?

Also what I did when I replaced my shuttle valve switches. It is kind of weird cutting and modifying the wiring on a brand new part, but that just means one less possible problem in the future. I also replaced the shuttle valve seals when I replaced the switches.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 06:46 PM
  #28  
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Done...and done. Los Tres Amigo's are now back in the kitchen cooking me mexican dinners where they belong.


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