Hello, I am new to this forum so here goes. I have a 2003 Disco II. I have had the same jet engine, whirr sound for the first 60 to 90 seconds of cold start. It was the secondary air injection pump. Now that sound is gone and the Check Engine Light is on. Is the pump dead, or is it the solenoid that turns it on? What is the black cannister that is on top of the pump with 2 vacume hoses going into it? Could that be broken? How do I test these parts? Thanks for your help.

 

I had the same noise on my 2003 Disco. It is the aux air pump. I know this in that upon start up if you are under the hood and put a hand on the pump you can feel it vibrate. When the jet noise stops, you can feel the vibration stop. Mine now does not make any noise and the check engine light is on. Is it the pump, the solenoid, or the black vacume can on top of the pump? Any ideas?

 

Well, redspyder, you'll need to crawl down to the auto parts store and have the codes read. They'll do this for free. Shops charge like $90 to do that, along with $20 environmental impact fee, $6 chewing gum fee, .. you get the idea. And you can buy your own reader/scanner.

The CEL is the truck's way of begging for attention. I guess in newer models eventually we will have a husky female voice asking us to "Take me! Take me to the dealer! Take me now!"

Attached are some pages so you will know about the SAI and codes it has. Not high resolution, but when you download your own set of the RAVE tech manuals those will be high res.

 

Hmmm..... I know mine is normal but just curious... did these things do the hair drying sounds when new? or is it more prevalent a the discos get older? my 03 does it most of the time for about 45 seconds, but how would one know it needed to be replaced or... "modded" with home made filter? lol

 

OK please everyone, Stop already with the lame advise... When you have this sound it IS YOUR SAI PUMP... PERIOD.

I just had mine changed out by a respected LR shop. 03 with 114k, The sound of bad bearings got louder and louder until finally the SES light came on right after the noise suddenly got even louder. I'd say I ran it for a good 6 months with the noise before the SES light came on. I found a good test to be unplugging the wire connector going to the large "hair dryer." The whine stopped, the SES light did not clear.

Not only did the whine go away but the truck runs better, sounds better... the diesel sounds went away... random pops went away which sounded like muffled backfires... and the engine sounds and runs smoother not only on start up but all the time.

Just get a new SAI pump and be done with it.

Mine cost around $350 installed and was well worth it.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I will give you more detail. About 2 months ago I had the engine resealed, heads off and shaved, etc, etc, $$. The car ran great for 3,000 mi. I brought it in to change the oil at the dealer so they could check their work. The day after I picked it up, the check engine light went on. Brought it back and they said the code read the pump needed replacing. They did not have the part in stock, they reset the check engine light, and I took my old dog home with 118,000mi. I just replaced the solenoid yesterday and it did nothing. My reasoning is that the solenoid is as old as everything else and why not, it is $25. I will have the codes checked again at the local parts store and head in the direction of replacing the pump. I also looked at the filter and it was fine. Can I put 12 volts directly to the pump? Why not? I may do that next before spending the money on the pump. I appreciate all the advice and love the forum.
Redspyder
2003 Disco, 118,000mi
86 Porsche 911 Carrara, 85,000mi
66 Healey 3000, 36,000, owned since '79 restored
74 Norton 850 Commando, 30,000mi restored
Racing Go Kart

 

See attached. Sorry it took so long, somebody kicked my walking stick away, and being lame, it was hard to get to the upper branches of the shade tree where these pages are kept filed by the parts vultures.

Pin 2 is the + 12, comes from a relay in the underhood fuse box, from a 50 amp fuse link that must run lots of other stuff. It is a one speed motor.

The RAVE has all of this, they just put the drawing in one set of files, and the information and connector layouts in a another file.

 

So, I hooked a separate 12 volt power supply to the pump and it shorted out and did not function. I replaced the pump, which now works much quieter than the old one. The check engine light is still on, and reads codes P1414, and P 1417. Interestingly the dude at the auto parts store says that it might turn itself off in 100 mi, I could go to the dealer or someone to reset the code. Or he suggested disconecting the battery, which might reset the codes. Has anyone tried this home remedy?
Thanks for all the help.
Redspyder
03 Disco
86 911 Carrara
66 Healey 3000
racing go kart

66 Healey 3000

 

here's pages from the RAVE on your codes, which are for the same thing, low pump output, on both sides of engine. Recheck fittings. New pump? Reset codes with code reader (you might have to buy your own, some states don't let stores reset codes). If buying a scanner, look at the Ultra Gauge, which can do lots of things plus monitor stuff like engine temp, etc.

 

Hey, my Rover healed it self. The check engine light went off after driving the car about 15 miles with maybe 3 engine starts. I love it. So it was the pump, the pump made a lot of jet engine noise the last 3 months of it's life, then just died. And testing it with 12 volts right to the electrical terminals demonstrated a short in the pump itself, causing my lights to dim when the computer was trying to start the pump. I replaced the pump and the Check Engine light went off after a few drives.
Cool
Red Spyder, 2003 Disco