Oh, that piece..
Round cylinder.
That is a vacuum air tank.
It holds vacuum to run the IAC system.
The IAC has valves on the top of the heads.
The ECU will turn on the IAC air pump in the morning - that sounds like a vacuum cleaner.

And then ---
The ECU will open a valve that allows vacuum to open the valves to the heads to allow
air injection. This little cylinder is a vacuum reserve I am guessing.

If you don't have the Air Injection - you will NOT have that little cylinder.
Count yourself LUCKY not to have IAC.

 

Isn't that piece the chamber normally close to the firewall by the vacuum cleaner on the passengers side? I know for a fact, I have the same looking canister up there, NOT by the air box.

And I think you mean SAI (Secondary Air) not Idle Air Controller? Everyone has a IAC.

And yes, if you do not have those extra bits you are lucky, they are a total PIA and cause more issues then they solve (cleaner emissions for the first 90 seconds your truck runs).

 

i want to wash the D2 engine before I do the headgasket job.
but i'm scared to park it in the wash bay.
3 sides surround the washed rover.
and if something electrical gets wet and i cant start it again.

then i have a stuck wet LR in the car wash bay
and i have a bunch of mad puerto ricans
that cant wash their cars. that's not good.

so maybe ill do it anyway.
or maybe ill do it at home in front of my house
with my new pressure washer.

it's good you guys are here to listen to me
even if you don't respond i know you read this
the page visits do not lie.

my wife is tired of my trucks.

 

it may sound strange but be careful using a home preasure washer they go a lot higher than the car wash 1500-2000 psi a lot of times.
When I do mine at the car wash I leave the truck running, that way if i hear it bog or flutter i can stop and redirect the water, Luckly it has never happened yet.

 

hmmmmm good tips on the pressure and on leaving it running. i'll do car wash and leave it running method.....after I find my new battery cable at Advance.

 

I turn it off for 10 minutes and let it sit in the engine bay.
Go during dinner hour.

Reason -
Too hot if running.

You need a warm engine - to help the GUNK and 3M remover to react to the grease and diss it, oh I mean dissolve it.

Hot engine and Gunk and 3M cleaner just evaporate.

Here is the best way I have learned via trial and error.

0) into wash bay
1) Wait 10 mins with hood up.
2) Spray on can of GUNK in all over greasy area.
3) Wait 5 mins for GUNK to dissolve grease.
4) Spray with high pressure soap mode.
5) Start truck.
6) Even if running rough, drive a few miles wiith the A/C on to make all the air and heat as possible to dry out engine.
7) done. Cam / glam time.

 

easy-off oven cleaner by the time you get to the car wash the grease and oil will be dripping off.

 

Went under the hood to check fluids...
thought I would post a few pics of my engine...

 

Looks good. I have NO idea how you got the plug wires that neat, mine are all mingled together.

Oh, and I notice no SAI... Lucky you.

 

Found the red wire separators..or wire looms at O'reillys that matched the new red 9mm wires I had ordered an extra inch long to keep them from touching any of the valve cover.
I figured with most of my patience spent on replacing the plugs and wires I figured the least I could do was make them look neat and organized.
get them in order as they come off the ignition coil and use the looms...look organized before you know it.


Oh yeah... I don't regret not having SAI. Not even sure what it does.