Who's done an auto transmission change?
#1
#2
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Easy in my book, I did it in my driveway with a stock height 03 D2 on the ground. I only raised it up to remove the old destroyed transmission/transfer case & to slide the replacements back under it. Start from the back & work your way forward. Remove center console, shifter plate (held in with PITA rivets), then once you have the rear support removed along with the transmission/transfer case mounts you can lower it down far enough to get the bellhousing bolts loose, then drop it using a harbor freight transmission jack.It took me a week in total due to weather, work, and I just took my time. Actual work time if I’d stuck with it was maybe 7-10hr job from start to finish including filling the transmission and testing everything.
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Greg Vasileff (12-22-2017)
#3
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Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
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Pretty straight forward, if you've ever changed a trans before. The crossmember can be a bit*h, bolts are normally rusted solid and have to be heated to remove.
Anyhow...
Jacked up rover and set on jack stands, dropped the y-pipe (required heating manifold nuts), remove both driveshafts, remove crossmember (required heat), disconnect parking brake drum/assembly, removed both trans mounts, removed torque converter bolts through access hole beneath starter, remove the 14 bell-housing bolts, remove shifter and hi-lo cables and wiring harnesses...and lowered trans down with a floor jack (not perfect tool for the job, but the trans was junk). Unbolted the transfer case from the trans and left it under the rover, hung by ratchet straps. But, if I ever did it again...I'd pull the whole thing as one assembly.
Didn't remove the center console, so not to sure about why Best4X4 did that? Maybe it makes something easier that I struggled with?
Brian.
Anyhow...
Jacked up rover and set on jack stands, dropped the y-pipe (required heating manifold nuts), remove both driveshafts, remove crossmember (required heat), disconnect parking brake drum/assembly, removed both trans mounts, removed torque converter bolts through access hole beneath starter, remove the 14 bell-housing bolts, remove shifter and hi-lo cables and wiring harnesses...and lowered trans down with a floor jack (not perfect tool for the job, but the trans was junk). Unbolted the transfer case from the trans and left it under the rover, hung by ratchet straps. But, if I ever did it again...I'd pull the whole thing as one assembly.
Didn't remove the center console, so not to sure about why Best4X4 did that? Maybe it makes something easier that I struggled with?
Brian.
#4
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Pretty straight forward, if you've ever changed a trans before. The crossmember can be a bit*h, bolts are normally rusted solid and have to be heated to remove.
Anyhow...
Jacked up rover and set on jack stands, dropped the y-pipe (required heating manifold nuts), remove both driveshafts, remove crossmember (required heat), disconnect parking brake drum/assembly, removed both trans mounts, removed torque converter bolts through access hole beneath starter, remove the 14 bell-housing bolts, remove shifter and hi-lo cables and wiring harnesses...and lowered trans down with a floor jack (not perfect tool for the job, but the trans was junk). Unbolted the transfer case from the trans and left it under the rover, hung by ratchet straps. But, if I ever did it again...I'd pull the whole thing as one assembly.
Didn't remove the center console, so not to sure about why Best4X4 did that? Maybe it makes something easier that I struggled with?
Brian.
Anyhow...
Jacked up rover and set on jack stands, dropped the y-pipe (required heating manifold nuts), remove both driveshafts, remove crossmember (required heat), disconnect parking brake drum/assembly, removed both trans mounts, removed torque converter bolts through access hole beneath starter, remove the 14 bell-housing bolts, remove shifter and hi-lo cables and wiring harnesses...and lowered trans down with a floor jack (not perfect tool for the job, but the trans was junk). Unbolted the transfer case from the trans and left it under the rover, hung by ratchet straps. But, if I ever did it again...I'd pull the whole thing as one assembly.
Didn't remove the center console, so not to sure about why Best4X4 did that? Maybe it makes something easier that I struggled with?
Brian.
I removed center console to get access to all the wiring on top of the transfer case. Real PITA from just the bottom of the D2. Makes it much easier & makes putting all the wiring back into their original position easy along with the fuel/vent lines. I removed the transmission & transfer case.
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The Deputy (12-22-2017)
#5
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I've don't it, too, but probably not as efficiently as the other posters. It is just a bolt off, bolt on operation, but there are a lot of bolts and the crossmember bolts alone can consume a full morning if they are seized. I found it much easier with the truck higher off the ground (using regular jackstands) and unless your muscles are bigger than mine (quite likely) a Harbor Freight transmission Jack is worth the money, with a coupon.
#6
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The easiest way is a 4 post vehicle lift or failing that very high axle stands, say 75cm high. Don't forget to restrain the torque converter from coming out so make up a small Z bracket first. Start at the back end and work towards the front methodically and if your stuck accessing the bell housing bolts just remove the engine mounts. To remove and refit takes around 2 days plus any cleaning or other works.
#8
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https://www.google.fr/search?q=youtu...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Greg Vasileff (12-24-2017)
#10
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There is a hoop restrainer already marketed in the US, SS discovered the source on the web.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; 12-23-2017 at 06:00 PM.
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