Why on Earth is my truck overheating????
#11
12-10-2012, 03:55 PM
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I don't suspect sensors, because the hoses were rock hard when I opened the hood after overheating.
I'm also going to suck it up and order an Ultra Gauge right now. Worse comes to worse, I'll toss it in another vehicle.
#12
12-10-2012, 03:58 PM
#13
12-10-2012, 04:00 PM
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If your hoses are pressurized and you are 90k+ miles -
you may need a head gasket.
If you start to get misfire codes on 1,2,7 or 8 cylinder # that will point to a head gasket eventually too.
I have bleed my D2 by running it at 1,200 rpm for 8 minutes with the coolant tank raised as high as it will go and the cap off.
This is NOT recommended and you can get scalded if not done correctly.
Right after I replaced the head gaskets I did this bleed below.
Before I replaced the head gaskets, I could never bleed it.
The bleed would not hold.
And, there was the water fall sound when taking off from spotlights.
But, I did this type of system bleed in March 2012 in Boulder, CO
and I have not had to bleed again.
I did just replace the head gaskets too.
you may need a head gasket.
If you start to get misfire codes on 1,2,7 or 8 cylinder # that will point to a head gasket eventually too.
I have bleed my D2 by running it at 1,200 rpm for 8 minutes with the coolant tank raised as high as it will go and the cap off.
This is NOT recommended and you can get scalded if not done correctly.
Right after I replaced the head gaskets I did this bleed below.
Before I replaced the head gaskets, I could never bleed it.
The bleed would not hold.
And, there was the water fall sound when taking off from spotlights.
But, I did this type of system bleed in March 2012 in Boulder, CO
and I have not had to bleed again.
I did just replace the head gaskets too.
Is the only way to definitively diagnose head gaskets by using an O2 test? I see no visble signs - no leaking, no white smoke, no performance degradation, no milky oil + it pressure tested to 16PSI @ 15 minutes.
Thanks ,
Steve
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12-10-2012, 04:20 PM
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#15
12-12-2012, 09:37 PM
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A couple of things, never turn off a vehicle with an aluminum engine if it is not leaking, you will toast it.
Second, you only bleed the engine when stone cold and never with it running if you want it done right.
As for your trucks issue, if it keeps happening over the next day, send me your number so I can walk you thru what to check and quit driving it if it even tries to over heat again.
Second, you only bleed the engine when stone cold and never with it running if you want it done right.
As for your trucks issue, if it keeps happening over the next day, send me your number so I can walk you thru what to check and quit driving it if it even tries to over heat again.
We spoke about this and decided that the next step was to perform a chemical block test. I did and it came up negative.
The only thing that I can think of, is either water pump is shot or a clog somewhere in the system.
Thoughts?
#16
12-13-2012, 10:07 AM
Super Moderator
Water pump - be sure serpantine belt is correct , it works better when it don't run bassackwards. The spec for the water pump flow is 2.64 gallons per minute at 1000 rpm. So you could hook up some hoses to it and let it pump water thru the system into a 5 gallon bucket. There are tales about the water pump impeller being loose on the center mount, or a blade being gone. The pix shows what they look like inside (D1 or D2 are same). IMHO the older pump with scale buildup is not going to be able to slip on the shaft. If going a new pump, BP Utah and a few others have a model with larger bronze impeller. Usually old pumps start to wobble the pulley, the bearing wears out, it starts leaking out the nose of the pump.
As far as blockage - most likely area would be radiator, has the smallest opening in the coolant path. If has not been changed, it can be removed, shake it to see if something is moving around in the side tank. Now that you have it out, set it aside and install a new one. A D2 rad is cheap compared to a D1. You can tell if it is sludged up by cheking heat on the fins (not tanks) fom top to bottom, should be within 10F. Water comes into tank, flows across all the tubes in parallel. Sludge forms at the bottom first, and as those tubes close off they are much cooler.
As far as blockage - most likely area would be radiator, has the smallest opening in the coolant path. If has not been changed, it can be removed, shake it to see if something is moving around in the side tank. Now that you have it out, set it aside and install a new one. A D2 rad is cheap compared to a D1. You can tell if it is sludged up by cheking heat on the fins (not tanks) fom top to bottom, should be within 10F. Water comes into tank, flows across all the tubes in parallel. Sludge forms at the bottom first, and as those tubes close off they are much cooler.
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