Wire size for future lights power for fridge etc?
#1
09-15-2020, 05:53 AM
Wire size for future lights power for fridge etc?
While I have my headliner dropped I would like to run some wire to the back of the vehicle for future lighting and power projects such as a fridge. Any recommendations on size of wire and type? This would serve as a power line for other smaller lines
#2
09-15-2020, 08:58 PM
Recovery Vehicle
To answer the question for certainty you have to know what the maximum current draw will be at any one time. I assume that you will be running wire from the front of the vehicle to the rear (length is also part of the equation). At that length you can safely draw 5 amps through a 16ga wire, 10 amps through a 12ga wire, 20 amps through a 10ga wire, and 30 amps through an 8ga wire.
I bought a Keyline isolator kit (I highly recommend it) which came with this massive 7ga wire that I ran inside the cabin to the back. I had more than enough wire leftover for other stuff. I doubt I’ll ever need that much current capacity but a bigger wire will give you a lower voltage drop and therefore increase the efficiency of your system. You will want to run copper wire for the same reason.
I bought a Keyline isolator kit (I highly recommend it) which came with this massive 7ga wire that I ran inside the cabin to the back. I had more than enough wire leftover for other stuff. I doubt I’ll ever need that much current capacity but a bigger wire will give you a lower voltage drop and therefore increase the efficiency of your system. You will want to run copper wire for the same reason.
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whowa004 (09-16-2020)
#3
09-16-2020, 05:05 AM
To answer the question for certainty you have to know what the maximum current draw will be at any one time. I assume that you will be running wire from the front of the vehicle to the rear (length is also part of the equation). At that length you can safely draw 5 amps through a 16ga wire, 10 amps through a 12ga wire, 20 amps through a 10ga wire, and 30 amps through an 8ga wire.
I bought a Keyline isolator kit (I highly recommend it) which came with this massive 7ga wire that I ran inside the cabin to the back. I had more than enough wire leftover for other stuff. I doubt I’ll ever need that much current capacity but a bigger wire will give you a lower voltage drop and therefore increase the efficiency of your system. You will want to run copper wire for the same reason.
I bought a Keyline isolator kit (I highly recommend it) which came with this massive 7ga wire that I ran inside the cabin to the back. I had more than enough wire leftover for other stuff. I doubt I’ll ever need that much current capacity but a bigger wire will give you a lower voltage drop and therefore increase the efficiency of your system. You will want to run copper wire for the same reason.
#4
09-16-2020, 11:06 AM
Recovery Vehicle
I would run a 4 AWG wire from the starter battery to the back along the frame and going through the body behind the left or right tail light (drill a hole behind). You get into the empty space behind the panel. There is plenty of space to install a fuse box and other things. From there you can run short wires to the ceiling and other places. Optionally you can install a second battery in the back. This is how I did it. A second battery is recommended anyway if you have permanent power consumers like a fridge.
For wire size vs amperage I used this table:
https://jascoautomotive.com/automoti...apacity-chart/
For wire size vs amperage I used this table:
https://jascoautomotive.com/automoti...apacity-chart/
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