I have never seen anything like this before. I bet i took out 80 bolts to get the radiator out. I removed it without unhooking any of the tranny or oil cooler lines. I think this made it tougher but i didnt know what to expect when i removed them so i decided not to. I coulda pulled the engine out in the time it took to remove this thing. Why would they make you take off the front grill to get to the radiator. Why not put a tray that it sets in and then bolt brackets on top? I just dont get it. I have been having over heating issues and thought the waterpump was bad because only half of the radiator was getting hot at full engine temps. THe bottom hose going to the waterpump was literally cold at full engine temps. So i flushed the radiator and it ran clean so didnt think the rad was the issue. ANy input on this would be appreciated. My mechanic didnt think the headgaskets where bad because it didnt seem to be flowing any coolant even with the cap off. thanks Kevin

 

The Di radiator can be pulled in 15 min, literally.

Your radiator is clogged, the bottom half is not working because hot coolant is not going though it.
Thats why its cold.

 

See https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...ter-2-a-51022/ for pix of what your rad may look like inside.

 

If you are over 100,000 miles, time for a new radiator, they really can't be cleaned out, a new soft spring t/stat and a fresh load of green coolant.
How many miles are on your engine.

 

152k. I tried to flush it and it ran clean but that doesn't mean anything. It seems pretty heavy even when empty. I already put in an oem stat and will do the waterpump since I already have it apart. I had to have done something wrong with the radiator. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without removing the oil and tranny coolers. I have A bad electric fan also. It's completely locked up so I need to find one of those too. Thanks for the info let's hope this works. I bought a lr3 a couple months ago so at least I'm not in a rush. I bought a radiator from affordable radiators.com for 143 shipped. With a one year warranty.

 

There ya go you found your problem. The electric fan is important for low speed cooling. For what its worth i recently replaced my radiator and took apart my 117k mile original unit, beside it having some minor scale build up it was in no way stopped up. This is 117k miles with dex-cool the whole time....

 

I'd be with you about the electric fan except it has never worked since I owned the truck. It's been about 3yrs at least with no working electric fan. The top half of the radiator on the driver side would be scolding hot and the bottom left was freezing with condensation. I could see the difference in the way the radiator looked.

 

Yeah - I don't know what was up with the designers on the D2 radiator. It's one of the more ignorant things I've ever seen. Step 1. Disassemble front of truck. Step 2. Remove offending radiator. Step 3. Re-assemble front of truck, including new radiator.

 

Just way more difficult than it has to be.

 

When you put the radiator back in you will notice that there are screws into the plastic which composes the sides of the radiator.

Only put these screws in snug.
Never tight.
You may crack the plastic if too tight; gaining a leak and then you will need to take the radiator out again.

As you will be putting in a brand new one.