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#12
#13
#16
Starting with a good condition truck, the additives will do little for them with daily driving. Lucas is good if you have an engine that sits un-used for long periods of time, like construction equipment. MMO is good for getting thru sludge, but if you change oil frequently and use something like Rotella, less sludge to worry with. All of the snake oil products (I have purchased many of them) work on the eternal hope that you can do something for your vehicle, and the eternal fear that if you don't it will be very expensive. Some people flush with ATF. There are more advanced products, like BG, that can do a better job of sludge removal. All sorts of homebrew mixes for oil flush, like fill up entire engine to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and Sea Foam and let is sit for a week before draining.
Change oil early and often. Use good gas. Clean out the PCV system. Don't fall for the old idea of a new filter every other oil change. Dealer would rather sell you a new engine than a new filter. I do like the jumbo filters (more oil capacity is a good thing). I do like the diesel rated oils because they have more cleaning compounds to deal with blow by, and keep the crud in suspension so the filter can grab it.
From the good articles Spike posted -
about solvents -
As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past two decades
That would be when the Buick guys designed the engine (like in a Skylark) that Rover purchased. Old School Rules.
Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/snakeoil.html#ixzz2B1a0yIpE
Change oil early and often. Use good gas. Clean out the PCV system. Don't fall for the old idea of a new filter every other oil change. Dealer would rather sell you a new engine than a new filter. I do like the jumbo filters (more oil capacity is a good thing). I do like the diesel rated oils because they have more cleaning compounds to deal with blow by, and keep the crud in suspension so the filter can grab it.
From the good articles Spike posted -
about solvents -
As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past two decades
That would be when the Buick guys designed the engine (like in a Skylark) that Rover purchased. Old School Rules.
Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/snakeoil.html#ixzz2B1a0yIpE
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 11-01-2012 at 08:30 PM.
#17
#18
aw, c'mon... you mean you never tried Slick 50? I think I got like 20hp and a boost of 7mpg after I lined my cylinders with PTFE.
#19
Currently, I am doing more research on Zmax to help my start up tick/knocks, since I don't drive my Disco that often. From the "open the engine up" results, I am really considering this product.
In regards to Lubro.....I always trip out when I pour it in any of the BMW's. It just seems like a weird lubricant, but hell, it works really good, but really expensive. Kendall, love it. But who the heck sells it now-a-days??!?!? I can't find it any longer.
I would use Redline for the engine, but again WAY too expensive. I only use it for the drive train. Here in California, Rotella 15-40 works really well and is really worth the money (very low cost) and Walmart is a great source.
On a side note.....
My brother and I used to have other LR's (Defender and 2 other Disco's) serviced by West Coast British, owned by one of the oldest US LR guru's. He always used 20/50 Castrol and told us not to use anything else. I thought it was too thick, but we kept with it for years. Never had ANY issues at all.
Last edited by wheelgarage; 11-02-2012 at 01:06 PM.