I re-started this thread! THX for all the likes on the old thread! I bought an unmolested 2004 D2. 143000 miles. Great interior. All original. Cracked front bumper and faded roof...no biggie. No weird engine noises, everything works. Even the headliner is perfect! Dry carpets. Heated windscreen. Original everything. Only issue is it does not start when hot (got a nice $$ discount for this!) Fuel pump works fine. I will replace the CPS tomorrow and see what happens. I plan to keep this as original as possible...for now. the key fob was beat so I nanocom programmed a new one which works fine. Have to get some tiny fob buttons and solder them in to original fob board. Bought from a dealer and they put all new brake pads and front to rear fluids. Have yet to check the D shafts....

Carfax said it spent most of it's life in SC, then a short haul in Washington state, then the last few years in Kentucky. Very little surface rust on frame.......

Thx for the likes on the original thread!

 

Ahab: just use an Ace hardware blank (or same) see pic. Fits perfectly. just have to mill and drill for the plastic key anchor or just have it on your key chain. The nanocom does not read the key. It reads what the BCU sees. In effect, you can see if your fob transmits when the key is 'detected' by nanocom through the BCU. But you have to program the 6 dig alphanumeric code on the board chip sticker. Nanocom reads the the 2-4 key code slots on the BCU. reprogram a slot that you DO NOT have a key for. If the fob is not detected, it could be the frequency (433 vs 413), battery, fob receiver, bad fob, not coded correctly...etc.....

sometimes, after programming the key, I have to write the gauge cluster to the BCU to get everything working again. The nanocom steps are not exactly intuitive, but it does work in 5 or 6 steps. For example, to delete an old key code, you have to move the cursor the the last digit, erase it, and then add the new key code. Safety feature i guess....

this is the Ace hardware key blank:

 

Looks good! good luck with it.

 

Thx! here is a shot of the engine. Just needs a battery cover. Paint on valve covers looks fairly new. Maybe had a rebuild....or its all original? Even has the heat protections sleeves on all the SAI pipes.....

 

I have a really nice battery cover you can have for shipping. It belongs on a truck that nice.I don't recall seeing the interior pics in the other thread. That boot looks brand new. I'll PM you a pic of the cover tomorrow.

 

Thx ahab. I have one. And some new leather boots! Changing out the CPS this am.....not fun to get that plug unhooked....

 

Ok, I'll be the one to ask...how much was it?
I don't care to know your business, but just curious as to what Any D2 is selling for these days.

 

about $3500.... Just replaced the crank sensor with :



24$! You can see by the pics that the old wires were exposed. Surprised it even started. All the housing nuts/bolts were loose too. old one out and new one in about an hour. I did not drop the exhaust downpipes. Just enough room to get 7 and 8mm 1/4 sockets and wrenches in there.....BUT, the real PITA is getting the connector back on the mount. I have not been able to do this yet. I ran it for a while and got it nice and warm. No issues starting up!




Pry the connector off the mount with a short lever. The connector came apart easily. Press tab on harness part of connector.




heat shield. dangling CPS wire .




New on left. Not good on right.




F'n hard to get this back into the mount. Looks easy but ..........

 

Not to be a wet blanket, but I've always heard that the Bosch CPS was basically a requirement - and others would regularly fail prematurely?

 

Understand what you say. But I have walker O2 sensors and am happy with them. I think they have a quality product. The one I took out was Bosch, but can't say it was better or worse.....will give walker a try and see how long it lasts...