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Thx Extinct. I was thinking about a direct thermistor sensor for true head temp, not reading the coolant temp.....either way would work....but probably overkill......
Direct thermistor sensor is going to be more subject to localized heating and load fluctuations, coolant fluid has the benefit of the turbulent flow of the molecules reducing localized spikes. Sometimes too much data speed is not good. I had a wideband sensor wired direct to a analog voltage graph at high speed and you could literally see the firing pulses and reversion flows.
So here is my take on adding accessory input to STOCK head unit (Alpine 'high end' w/CD player). I looked into scanning the iBus codes and writing code for a Teensy 4.0. It is doable, but time intensive. I would use this program (first link) to grab the data, and then filter it out like in the second link.
These are excellent reads. The navcoder is a great piece of software! and cheap, for those of you into coding. I also examined some aftermarket units which plug into the CD harness, but these are older units and the 8 bit processors are locked, so no getting info out of them with the limited knowledge I have (see pics). The different brands are in the pics, none are available anymore except the GROM unit. You can see the BT board added under the GROM main board. There is also a micro SD card reader, I'm guessing for program loading/data logging and possible keycode protection. The Soundgate unit did show CD01 track 01, so I probably could have added a BT module to CD input on the unit, but it would have been one way and no phone control. I did pick up a few BT 5.0 breakout audio units for a few $ and they worked fine. But I decided to make my own harness so that I could plug into the CD harness under pass seat. Easy to do. I used the old CD player harness and board as a guide. Also, there is a link to wiring dgm pic from someone else who did same thing here on this forum .
SOOOOO.....instead of wasting hours of my life figuring out everything, I bought the GROM unit. It hooked right up with my harness, and phone and BT worked perfectly. You can advance songs with FF and RR buttons. Phone cuts audio and works well w/included mic. The power line to the CD player is always ON, so battery drain. But easy to unplug for long storage! If you don;t have the CD player, you can still get the BMW connector, just look up part number in the pic from link above. I used 22 gauge 8 lead wire from Amazon, and 20 pin Molex connector (amazon) to build my harness. Cheap and easy. Why use the CD player connector? I did not feel like taking out the head unit and stuffing the GROM back into a tight space. Now I can put it into the center console storage or under seat. Easy to add other connectors to the GROM.
And BTW, the audio quality is excellent with Android through GROM BT.
Bottom cable is out of my OEM CD player. All lines clearly identified on back side of board, so matching wires is easy. DO NOT TRUST COLORS! there are only 6 wires needed for GROM connection! The cable with the BLUE plug is the GROM head unit cable (not used by me).
this was sold a few years back, NLA
My GROM cable extension for under seat CD connector
Today my son and I worked on building up new mounts for the front crossbar. Long hot day...but getting there..... He did a nice job on the welds. We had to torch out the old frozen bolts and build new spacing mounts for the 4" lift....these were then welded to the frame and new stainless bolts used. The mounts are three sided so that you can access the nuts from the inside of the frame. and easy to add spacers if needed....mounts are angled to match driveshaft angle.
or just leave it out. Neither of mine have it and zero issues or frame deflection..
x2 with Whowa004....I cut mine out years ago, no difference noticed, at all
According to what I've read was said by the Land Rover engineers (hear say at best, but take it as you will), that piece was there not as a cross member, but was only there as a catch for the front drive shaft if it was to come apart. The nasty side effect was that when the front driveshaft does come apart, that cross member holds it in place just right to beat the crap out of the transmission...woops, lol
agree with you whowa004. I had this one out and my last D2 cross bar out too. I never felt a difference either, but those rubber body isolators take up a bit of twist so subjectively, I probably would never know if the frame was twisting anyway. And the four little flat plate bolts at 90 degrees probably don't do much to counter twist. But, what Mntnceguy says is Interesting...not sure how the engineeers thought that a flat bar would be of help if D shaft grenades (except it won't plant into the ground at 90 mph!) , it is still whipping around in there and hitting everything else. And by coincidence, I had planned to weld in a driveshaft hoop just for that reason. .120 DOM. Just have to figure out the top bolt in release system........I'll post some pics soon...
My rear rubber D-shaft was cracked and beat...original since 2004, pretty sure. Replaced it with brand new rubber....but now the vibrations were too much due to lift angle, stiff new rubber, and 6 degree correction. So, removed old D shaft and then had to remove the guide pin from 3 bolt yoke. I 'thought' I had a hardened 8mm bolt in the hole, but it twisted and broke off....so no drilling hole out for larger bolt. I ended up welding on a G8 3/4 hardware store bolt. With a big socket and 3/8 electric impact gun, D-shaft guide came right out....Then my son and I put in my spare double cardan rear shaft (well greased including center ball). 4 hours overall....now she is smooth on the road....
NOTE: all was fine until I tried to install the new AllMAkes STC4858. This is the newer version 4 bolt flange that does not need the spacer washer. The length of the internal splines and the internal washer ridge are dead on, so when torqued (I used locktite and 85ft lbs...Should be 70 to 110??...depending which source..), should not mess up pinion bearing preload and felt like it did with the 3 bolt. It was the slinger that is too wide. Had to machine it to correct diameter, 2.70" or a bit under...does not have to be perfect. I also had to seat the seal in a bit more...about 4mm or so. Some owners press off the old slinger and replace the new one. It was easier to machine it. You could probably just grind it with a grinder, Not a critical dimension, but I did not want to damage the seal surface.....
alll good now...
This is my backup diff, you can see the guide pin that has to be removed.
my crappy weld, but it held fine...It was welded under car . this is after removal...
the 'puller' set-up
OEM flange used to measure required diameter...
new 4 bolt flange on lathe...machining slinger to correct size
Double cardan rear D-shaft, front end is to the right...
You got me going on the Grom unit. I might try it on the next D2. I’ve known about them, but never messed with them. Is splicing necessary across the board?
