Remote Coil Mount
been done before, but this is how I did it:
Heated and bent stainless bar for upper brace. Drill hole size exactly for alternator bolt so that when tightened, it compresses the pinch grommet (you do not want it slipping OVER the pinch grommet.....). Lower brace made with mild steel. Welded a bolt across the brace, and added spacer nut.
Used a Morosso wire loom, shortened, bent, and drilled for AC compressor bolt. Only cost was the spark plug wires 'High Performance' ignition wire set IGN 790GC and the EV1 3 pin connectors (2 x male, 2 x female)
well....crap! Cylinder 4 misfire. Swapped coils (cause its easy now!)....no change. Swapped leads...no change....Have great spark....so......
looks like intake coming off again and I will have to put the noid lights on the injector plugs...and probably swap out #4 injector for one of the old ones.....
sheesh....
Other than that, she is quiet and smooth with ZERO tapping....at least one thing worked out....
well, after removing the upper intake this am, I found that I had swapped #'s 6 and 4 spark plug wires at the plugs, ugggghhh. stupid simple error. They were in right location on coils. Runs fine now.....drove 20 miles no issues.
Also got rid of loud whine I had before rebuild (sounded like trans pump going bad). Turns out it was a bad idler pulley, with the spacer put on wrong.....
Well...the ebay rebuilt injectors for 89$ had an issue. One stuck open!.... Soooo...pulled the top end and replaced all the injectors with rock auto chinese versions @ 20$ each. Turned her over and had a momentary hydrolock from all the fuel which had leaked down from the original bad injector(only gave her half a crank and stopped)....I pulled plug 6 (lucky guess ..and this was one of 2 throwing misfires on nanocom before changing injectors) Turned her over and out sprayed a bunch of gas..nice!
Plug back in and she fired right up, no misfires. smooth idle.....wayy more power now. Glad no damage from the hydrolock.......
Nice job. I wish I was as adventurous as you are taking all this stuff apart and back together. You get to a level that most people (I think) won’t go which is pretty impressive.
I just replaced my steering box for the 2nd time and it kicked my butt. I swear I spend more time wrenching than I do driving!
Thx CV. I have never done the steering box. Last one I had a shop do it. It's heavy...you get credit for doing that!!
....it takes me 3.5 hours to change out injectors from beginning to end, including hood off and on (if no issues with anything). Only a few tools needed.....But if there is an issue, just add hours or days....
So i'm still having a little fuel pressure loss. Used to start right up. Now it has to crank a few times.... So I put in my spare SAI fuel pump. That was fun.......Get the amazon 10$ interior removal tool set (the one with TWO metal tools)..makes it easy...daughter got involved! she was really helpful! ...
Hardest part was getting the rusty ring off the tank.... Old pump practically falling apart(one spring did fall out).....the tank sender was really loose.....New pump went right in. No issues with the original rubber sealing ring...was as good as new. I sprayed a bit of WD40 on pump edge and it slid into the installed ring easily. Got an allegedly 'real Bosch' pump (in a labelled box with same marks on pump as bosch pics) off amazon for 180$ delivered a week ago. I'm sure it's more than that today........Tons of power!! Went out for a few laps around town....She really scoots......
but still having slow pressure loss....no fuel smell in intake or around engine...all fuel line connections dry.....maybe an injector again (or a bad injector ground wire shorting??)....I will give it some time for all the seals to swell up a bit.....see what happens...
THX Guys! It makes life way easier, especially since I have secondary air pipe back there. The only really challenging part to get were the EV1 3 pin connectors...
Had intermittent 3 amigos. Some days no lights, some days warning lights. I like having ABS, so I did the shuttle valve bypass. Some people splice into the left and right switch brown wires, and leave the original connections to the internal plug. Others just bypass the plug completely. Since these are not really switches, but two voltage dividers in series, I bypassed the plug completely. If I measure the old switch with switches open (unpressed), I get 3 kOhm. If I press one switch, I get 2 kOhm. And if i press the second switch and hold both down, I get 1 kOhm. Because of this design, it does not matter which brown wire goes to ground, and which brown wire goes to green/yellow wire (if you cut both!). After testing my old switch, and seeing that they were functioning correctly, and then checking the internal plug connector, and seeing that it was spotless, the issue has to be (well 'should' be) internal board corrosion, and the bypass is definitely needed as the next step.
So on a new switch plate, I completely severed the brown wires going to the plug, and added internal RED and BLACK extensions, and hot glued the new holes (already been shown 1000 times). I added a few dabs of hotglue to plug the plug holes (at the plastic plate side, not the electrode side), placed the plug on the switch plate, and put the new switch into the ABS modulator. Then I added a sealed plug to the extensions.
Works great.
Testing old switch plate
old switch plate, no switches pressed.
Both switches pressed
I left the green/yellow wire in place in the plug, and just spliced into it with RED wire. Ground to AC line mount bolt.
So I put in my spare SAI fuel pump. That was fun....
