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Thx redwhitekat! Well honestly the hardest part was getting the correct (?) measurements, getting the correct 3 Nm torque wrench, and tightening the intermediate shaft nut. I admit that I did not shim the diff, so this is really only 2/3 of the job, and I have yet to see if it holds up! Switched some parts over from my old T case. The high low shifter was aligned a hair better, so maybe the grub screw rotated a hair on the 04 selector shaft. BE VERY CAREFUL when tightening down the lock/unlock selector housing (the round part with three screws) because if the arm is not perfectly in the selector bar slot, you can bend it! Don't ask how I know.... Another thing, I tested both of my lock/unlock selector housings and there is nearly a 50% gap between the arm and the groove in the rod even when the arm is flat. So the arm I installed has just a touch of down bend and sits fully in the slot ...with a VERY tiny bit of play in the locked and unlocked positions. It should not slip out. There are a few tips on one of the pics below... I grease the heck out of all bolt heads and anything that can rust.
The lock/unlock switch installed and a correct 04 wiring harness connector added (came off a broken 04 harness bought for cheap on ebay). I used a 7$ "Engine Oil Drain Plug 2008-2018 VW Audi M14x1.5mm N 911 679 01" to seal off the unused switch port. I set the detent ***** so that the unit shifts fairly easily, but also locks nicely into place. I use a nylock lock nut , rather than the OEM metal lock not, on the lock/unlock selector stud.
I did not use loctite on all the selector housing bolts. The old ones were a bear to remove with the last half inch on each bolt covered in loctite. when I did use it, I only used a tiny drop on a few of the last threads to enter the hole so that these break free first next time I have to undo them. I used the green gaskets on the two covers and the two selector housings. Cleaning hylosil out of the T case was a good enough reason not to put it back in there. I'm guessing gaskets cost more than hylosil as a product and in install time.
Be sure to test all switches again before putting the T case in the Disco!
OK! T case finally in. What a real PITA!!!!. Seems that my p38 engine and trans are back just enough to make install a huge hassle. I did finally have to trim off some of the sheet metal obstructing rear of T case. I also had to move the two vapor hoses and the fuel line out of the way. Easy to unhook squeeze clamps. I also had to cut off the silencer hanger! the tranny mount lower nut loosened, and the Tcase mount was completely removed. every little bit of room needed.
Now there is just enough room to jack that bad boy straight up, and gently slide it forward when, and only when, the trans output shaft and the T-case seal are lined up perfectly (so you don't screw up the seal). The I was able to work it forwards slowly. Took about 40min to work it forward. Got to a point where it would not go anymore, about 1.5 " from seated. At this point, the tranny output shaft has enough purchase on the T-case, and I slowly let down the jack, allowing me to rotate the whole T-case just enough to get one long bolt (with socket on it) and one guiding stud in place. now the T-case is lined up to all the bolt holes and I slowly had to tighten the long bolt to draw it into the tranny. It has to be perfectly aligned or the T-case does not slide all the way in because a little tiny 10mm bolt head is in the way!
At this point, it was close enough and I just used the OEM bolts to slowly snug it all together. Filled with fluid! put in temp sensor. Put in new T-case mount (I had to elongate the mount hole by about 1/2 inch to get the new mount to line up!) The T case mount was a big PITA too. Had to undo the tranny mount, and jack the whole t-case and trans up a few inches to get the new mount in. Engine mounts look newer so I did not mess with them except to loosen them before jacking up the tranny.
I would say that this has been a learning experience. Without a lift it's not easy. Also, glad my truck is jacked 4" over stock! Still , it was tight under there....
Tip: There is a guy on ebay selling boxes (each about 5-10 lbs?) of nuts and bolts left over from stripping down discos. Well worth the 20$ or so!! Tons of non rusty bolts and switches and body parts. That's where I got the long bolt for 'snugging.' It was a body mounting bolt.
Trimmed the body metal at rear of T-case. I will add a few welds and some silicone sealer ....
welded up the body where I cut out the seam. Welded in 4 new bolts for the new style heat shield. Welded the hanger back together. Primed and then sprayed with undercoat.
All back together after a hot 10 hour day. T-case works great. BUT, as soon as I rolled off the driveway, the noise was back!! SOAB! Still the same, on decel, nasty rattle. So I checked the front caster rods bolts. All were really loose!!! Tightened them all up and noise is gone. Oh well, live and learn..... Chipped some rust, primed and undercoated. Got the exhaust all back together. She started right up, I mean on half a crank Sounds great, runs great. Did some minor off road on a sandy trail. Diff lock nice. No noises from T-case. All the alarms/lock lights work correctly. No driveshaft vibrations !!
A note about the power close mirror. Unfortunately, the only version still available is the english model, which is angled for a right side driver. Even with correct beveled mirror....It still needs to come in 3/4 inch. It's missing the second detent.....So might have to see if I can mod the mirror.
OK! T case finally in. What a real PITA!!!!. Seems that my p38 engine and trans are back just enough to make install a huge hassle. I did finally have to trim off some of the sheet metal obstructing rear of T case. I also had to move the two vapor hoses and the fuel line out of the way. Easy to unhook squeeze clamps. I also had to cut off the silencer hanger! the tranny mount lower nut loosened, and the Tcase mount was completely removed. every little bit of room needed.
Now there is just enough room to jack that bad boy straight up, and gently slide it forward when, and only when, the trans output shaft and the T-case seal are lined up perfectly (so you don't screw up the seal). The I was able to work it forwards slowly. Took about 40min to work it forward. Got to a point where it would not go anymore, about 1.5 " from seated. At this point, the tranny output shaft has enough purchase on the T-case, and I slowly let down the jack, allowing me to rotate the whole T-case just enough to get one long bolt (with socket on it) and one guiding stud in place. now the T-case is lined up to all the bolt holes and I slowly had to tighten the long bolt to draw it into the tranny. It has to be perfectly aligned or the T-case does not slide all the way in because a little tiny 10mm bolt head is in the way!
At this point, it was close enough and I just used the OEM bolts to slowly snug it all together. Filled with fluid! put in temp sensor. Put in new T-case mount (I had to elongate the mount hole by about 1/2 inch to get the new mount to line up!) The T case mount was a big PITA too. Had to undo the tranny mount, and jack the whole t-case and trans up a few inches to get the new mount in. Engine mounts look newer so I did not mess with them except to loosen them before jacking up the tranny.
I would say that this has been a learning experience. Without a lift it's not easy. Also, glad my truck is jacked 4" over stock! Still , it was tight under there....
Tip: There is a guy on ebay selling boxes (each about 5-10 lbs?) of nuts and bolts left over from stripping down discos. Well worth the 20$ or so!! Tons of non rusty bolts and switches and body parts. That's where I got the long bolt for 'snugging.' It was a body mounting bolt.
Trimmed the body metal at rear of T-case. I will add a few welds and some silicone sealer ....
Found the leak into passenger footwell. Sloped top of air intake, like a spout, so water runs in... Made an ABS gutter and plastic welded into place, and then 'siliconed' all over the new gutter top, so no more leak FINALLY!
Also, installed x4 adjustable +3 shocks from TF. Fronts were a PITA, old rusty bolts and limited access. rears easy. did it all with the tires in place. So started out on setting '2' which was less stiff than the heavy duty TF shocks, but still stiff. So I set them all at '1.' Finally have a softer ride, and no leaning. If I ever load this baby up for a trek, I can stiffen the shocks. Every bolt greases and antiseized... Faced all red adjusting ***** to rear...
06-08-2020, 07:09 PM
Sounds great, runs great. Did some minor off road on a sandy trail. Diff lock nice. No noises from T-case. All the alarms/lock lights work correctly. No driveshaft vibrations !!
