Yet another flashing M&S light issue
Hi all,
I've searched all the forums and cant come up with a solution to my problem. When the truck starts everything is fine, no CEL no codes. When you drive it it seems to take a long time to shift from 1st to 2nd gear (around 2500 RPM and it's a very authoritative shift. I swapped the XYz switch (it's properly adjusted), changed the transmission filter and fluid(to the correct level), and tested the battery and alternator. everything checks out. About 10 seconds after the truck shifts into 2nd gear the M&S lights start flashing and it goes into limp mode... please help!!!
I've searched all the forums and cant come up with a solution to my problem. When the truck starts everything is fine, no CEL no codes. When you drive it it seems to take a long time to shift from 1st to 2nd gear (around 2500 RPM and it's a very authoritative shift. I swapped the XYz switch (it's properly adjusted), changed the transmission filter and fluid(to the correct level), and tested the battery and alternator. everything checks out. About 10 seconds after the truck shifts into 2nd gear the M&S lights start flashing and it goes into limp mode... please help!!!
How old is your battery and are all of the connections clean and tight? Have you checked the voltage from the alternator when running? Low voltage seems to cause all kinds of problems with the trans.
The code reader says P0722. Did you look up that code in the RAVE manual? The fault description for P0722 is "Torque converter slipping" and the effect description is "Maintains current gear in low range, limp home mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/engagement."
You have the diagnosis, I recommend you use it. I hate it when people throw parts, money and time at problems before using the diagnostic tools available, especially for something as expensive as the XYZ switch. Hopefully you didn't buy a new one and pay that outrageous price. Throwing parts at something without the codes makes sense for Option B. Doing that's only a few bucks and maybe an hour.
You have the diagnosis, I recommend you use it. I hate it when people throw parts, money and time at problems before using the diagnostic tools available, especially for something as expensive as the XYZ switch. Hopefully you didn't buy a new one and pay that outrageous price. Throwing parts at something without the codes makes sense for Option B. Doing that's only a few bucks and maybe an hour.
if a bad battery could I would think alternator could as well. And 13 is low.
Ok. And to mln01's point, I don't want to blindly throw money, parts, and time at the d2 either but if the alternator's output is low then it would make sense to replace that first and see where I'm at. Is that a fair assumption or am I just beating around the bush?


