In hopes of seeing what my oil pressure looks like I purchase a mechanical oil pressure gauge. This will be one of my first diagnostic procedure on my Disco project. The engine does have anoticeable tap,whichI can't tell if it's normal injector tick or valvetrain tap. I do foresee a ATF flush with this motor and I'm curious to see the before and after oil pressure readings. According to my on-line CD manual it says I can tap into the oil galley by removing the oil pressure switch located in the oil filter housing. I stuck my head under the truck and didn't notice any switch or electrical harness going to the oil filter housing. I did notice what appeared to be a knock sensor or oil pressure switch located right below the left exhaust manifold. What sensor or switch is that? And where would be the easiest place to tap into the oil galley?

Mike

 

Year and model for starters.
When you do find it, check 4 times, cold at idle, cold at 2000 RPM's hot at idle and hot at 2000 RPM's.

 

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: CandiMan


Silly me. I just edit my signature to include my make/model

 

Good idea, every vehicle will benefit from gauges as well as warning indicators. A couple of thoughts though and an answer to your question. It IS located within inches of the oil filter and has a whitish connector. The sender is located on the timing cover portion (as is the filter) it would be located on passenger side like the filter. There is the crank sensor on the front of the timing cover above the harmonic balancer and shrouded by the water pump. Just push in the metalretaining clip and GENTLY work it off. When reattaching, put some dielectric grease on the weather pack seal and a dab on the actual female connectors of which there are two. That grease should be used anytime any electrical connection is touched to prevent corrosion and since it's not conductive, you won't run the risk of signal bleed between wires. This stuff goes on the inner parts of the ignition wires as well and will make removal much easier as well as the afor mentioned protection it provides against corrosion. More isn't always better, just a coating is fine. BUT, as usual I post too much info and bore people with the details. What I wanted to mention as far as gauges are concerned is this; Countless times in my profession it's been a gauge on a vehicle that has told me what I need to know where a warning light is more of a "money light" since the damage is already there. In the case of oil pressure, the ability to monitor it constantly is great as it gives you information like cold pressure, hot pressure, both at idle and through the RPM range, it will allow you to notice anomolies or wear issues, you'll see differences based on climate or viscocity etc. If you begin noticing lower pressure or erratic readings due to cavitation for example, it can save you the cost ofa motor. How fast it comes up tells a lot about the filter quality and fitment. The drainback seal (nitrile or rubber) is BIG when considering how much immediate oil is available at start up which is the most critical time long term. cheap filters deliver poor performance. You'd never know it unless you could monitor the oil. BTW-Wix filtersare the same filter as the Land Rover branded ones. They are top notch, just cost less than a LR filter and doesn't sport the LR name on it but who cares. Nitrile antidrainback valves are MUCH better than rubber ones found on cheap filters. Rubber and oil, you can see what oil does to a spark plug boot for instance over time.

Here's the final note on this issue: Why wouldn't you put a gauge on permenantly? I have four gauges on my LR2 and they don't interfere with the stock system. Just compliment it. I have the oil gauge plumbed into the same port as the factory sensor using and adapter that allows both to work. Instead of a mechanical gauge which is ripe with potential problems, I used an electronic sending unit and an electric gauge. This way, I always know what the lubrication system is doing. Second is a coolant gauge, and yeah, I know it has one stock, but redundancy is not a bad thing, think of airplanes, almost every system has a redundant backup just in case. Then a voltmeter to monitor the actual volts. Ammeters are dangerous if not done with absolute safety in mind since you are putting it in series between the alternator and the battery. A voltmeter gives you all you need. Lastly, a vacuum gauge plumbed to the intake gives me on the spot indication of fuel efficiency (that's basically what the old BMW gauges relied on amongst others) it also allows you to monitor potential issues pertaining to the motor's state of health. When I had my P38, I used the vac gauge on the air suspension and it gave me a plethora of information such as compressor health, how often it cycled and more. The other system that is vastly ignored in the industry as a whole is transmission fluid temp. Most times, transmission fail due to overheating. Rarely is it just worn out from miles. it's worn out or failed by miles of overheated fluid causing friction modifiers to fail and the detergent to fail etc. While there is a warning indicator at least on the LR's it's more important to know what temp the fluid is at. You'd be amazed by the change that occurs in temp while towing, climbing, driving on the freeway etc. Knowing the variables will save you lots of problems. Autometer makes an aluminum manifold block that can be fitted into any in or out cooler line so you can screw in a sender and then go to the gauge. On my heavily modified 460 big block nitrous fed monster truck (toy for the weekends etc) I have one for the incoming temp and one for the outgoing. There's all sorts of theories on what's more important to read and monitor in that regard, I like to have both because it was that one modification that literally saved me building another C6 transmission. needless to say, the numbers indicated the cooling circuit for the fluid was not adequate and because I could monitor it, each improvement I made gave me tangible results. In the end, just that modification paid for every piece of equipment and my time. Oh, and a preoiler plumbed in is a luxury that a mechanic can do cost affordably, but again, in aviation and many exotic cars, pre lubing the engine is a no brainer as it adds years to motors. Each of my vehicles have one. Moroso makes two sizes, a three quart and a 1.5 quart and when plumbed in with a solenoid, they will pump three quarts of oil through the lubrication system when the key is turned on (giving it several seconds to do so before starting the motor) The benefit is obvious, especially when one understands the wear engines recieve on start up. some articles indicate that as much as 40% of overall wear is during the first 10 minutes of running a motor. lastly, if the oil pump for instance failed (think 03' discos) the oil accumulator will pump a valuable 3 quarts of oil through the engine while the driver finds a safe place to pull over. Just read all the posts about sudden engine failure due to the block machining tolerance issues on early 03 discos and you'll get the picture. The nice thing is that you can upgrade ALL three oil system improvements I must mentioned at the same time. I assume you are using synthetic oil right? Thats an improvement that takesno tools or mechanical aptitude whatsoever, other than a wrench etc of course.

 

Does anyone have info on the tic the land rovers sometimes have ,sounds like lifters. Lifters have been replaced ,tic still there after engine warm up. Also looking for the adapters to do the oil pressure tests ?

 

Are you sure it isn't injectors ticking or timing chain?