When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do you ever have this problem?
Still trying to figure out exactly what causes it, but what I think is happening is that when I get going quick, typically on a cold start.. And have to come to a sudden stop... The RPM gets too low and she dies. Starts right back up and works fine other than that.
Happened once pulling out of 711 at a stop sign about 10ft out, happened once when turning around.. Threw it in reverse, back into drive.. Then dead. Happened another time showing off to freinds, did a quick fast 50ft spurt to sudden stop, then dead. 3 times so far.
I've been reading lots online... Could be anything I suppose but I have a feeling it's something to do with the fact that I've removed all EVAP systems as well as the GM EGR...and possibly EGR needs to be tuned out of the PCM.... Any of this sound familiar to you/anyone here?
Do you have the purge valve hooked up? The things you describe can be caused if the Land Rover ECU does a check while the GM engine is running - basically causes a large vacuum leak. Usually right after a shutdown and then start soon after. ACE has something about it in the Purge Valve manual.
Ok guys. I ended up going on eBay and buying a used harness in good shape to modify just so I could keep my stock one unmolested.
For anyone that is intimidated by this work it's not bad at all as long as you take your time and find the connectors that need to be kept. Everything else pretty much gets pulled back and eliminated. It's very important to properly terminate the cut wires. I used heat shrink folded over with another tube on top.
I spent some time cleaning things up and I have some wire sheathing from Amazon getting dropped of today so I can tidy it up further.
Just pulled my Rover engine and... Do I really need to remove the pan to get the torque converter bolts out? I removed the 3 bolt access plate and it shows me the rectangular nuts and I can't get to the bolts. I removed the rubber plug, the sensor (not sure what one it is), and the starter and I can't even come close to reaching the torque converter bolts. Everything seems to far outside the crank centerline to reach the bolts. Rave said the rubber plug if I recall got me there... Nope.
I'm only posting this here because it seems like it would be good knowledge for someone doing the swap since you need the torque converter swapped over.
I don't believe you should need to remove the oil pan....I know I didn't take mine off until the engine was out, otherwise I would've had oil everywhere.
Just remove the access plug. get in there with a ratchet and an extension or 2, and then rotate the crank pulley on the front until you have all the bolts out.
Do you have the purge valve hooked up? The things you describe can be caused if the Land Rover ECU does a check while the GM engine is running - basically causes a large vacuum leak. Usually right after a shutdown and then start soon after. ACE has something about it in the Purge Valve manual.
Thank you.
I just unplugged the canister under the frame in the back, fingers crossed this takes care of my issue.
I'll update in a few months, hopefully to let everyone know the problem never came back 😁
Thank you.
I just unplugged the canister under the frame in the back, fingers crossed this takes care of my issue.
I'll update in a few months, hopefully to let everyone know the problem never came back 😁
Just curious. Will unplugging that make it hard to pass emissions? Not sure if you guys have that or not.
I don't believe you should need to remove the oil pan....I know I didn't take mine off until the engine was out, otherwise I would've had oil everywhere.
Just remove the access plug. get in there with a ratchet and an extension or 2, and then rotate the crank pulley on the front until you have all the bolts out.
Not sure how much these help but I'm beginning to think I need a different extension or ratchet. I don't have one that will fit in there and turn 180 degrees and then turn a bolt while pointing at me. I'm obviously missing something because I don't think wedging a box end wrench in there would have been possible without the engine removed. It was barely possible with the engine sitting on the hoist. I only had to cut one of three bolts off. No access from the front. All pictures were taken with the bolt lined up and not moved from the front to back pictures. Front side starter hole Back side starter hole Back side access plug Front side access plug
I hope I'm not wrong here.. Been a minute since I did it..
This should be the spot. Rotate the crank pulley around until the next bolt shows up and so on.
This is the spot Rave tells you to get at.. Looks like you already got one out...
I hope I'm not wrong here.. Been a minute since I did it..
This should be the spot. Rotate the crank pulley around until the next bolt shows up and so on.
This is the spot Rave tells you to get at.. Looks like you already got one out...
Negative that's what I see and that was before removing any bolts. If you look at the picture from the other side you can see the thread of the bolt and that view is showing that there is nothing to remove or see from that access point with the bolt lined up.
The way I had to remove them required flexing the cracked flex plate enough to wedge a wrench between that and what I'd call a flywheel because it looks like a flywheel without a clutch surface. There was no view of the bolt head from the front besides a very partial view through the starter hole (shown previously).
