When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
One of the other forum members provided a quote from ACE after asking the same questions. I can’t remember the exact words, so paraphrasing ACE, the Rover MAF signal is used by the transmission. Kinda vague.
I have emailed ACE and have found them, or him, to very responsive. Might be another opportunity to loop them, or him, into the conversation.
Sorry dont mean to change the MAF discussion. My LS swap is almost completed. Need some help, cant seem to get a full open throw on the throttle. Using a Summit intake and throttle body (92mm). Tried 2 different throttle cables recommended by Summit Racing. Everything fits with no play in the cable but only getting 1/2-2/3 open. Has anyone run into this issue ?
Sorry dont mean to change the MAF discussion. My LS swap is almost completed. Need some help, cant seem to get a full open throw on the throttle. Using a Summit intake and throttle body (92mm). Tried 2 different throttle cables recommended by Summit Racing. Everything fits with no play in the cable but only getting 1/2-2/3 open. Has anyone run into this issue ?
There's a few issues with this setup. The size of the TB pivot assembly is much larger than stock so the amount of throw is different. The distance that the TB mount also has to be moved back - a custom mounting solution will be needed. Lastly, the pedal geometry/throw is most likely different. I had to remove all the stops on the pedal assembly and cut away some of the carpet to get extra throw. With all that done I still only get about 85 percent of max throw. I'm happy with that for now until I figure out further improvements.
Yes! I did run into this exact problem. You need to remove half of
the GM style throttlebody cable wheel and replace it with the stock Rover throttlebody wheel. The Rover wheel is smaller, so the stock Rover cable travel results in the GM throttlebody opening all the way.
I used a Dremel tool to grind off the rivets of the GM throttlebody wheel, and removed the outer half, which gave me a flat spot that I could weld the Rover wheel to. Next, I welded the GM cruise control post to it. It’s not real pretty, but works good.
Yes! I did run into this exact problem. You need to remove half of
the GM style throttlebody cable wheel and replace it with the stock Rover throttlebody wheel. The Rover wheel is smaller, so the stock Rover cable travel results in the GM throttlebody opening all the way.
I used a Dremel tool to grind off the rivets of the GM throttlebody wheel, and removed the outer half, which gave me a flat spot that I could weld the Rover wheel to. Next, I welded the GM cruise control post to it. It’s not real pretty, but works good.
Yes! I did run into this exact problem. You need to remove half of
the GM style throttlebody cable wheel and replace it with the stock Rover throttlebody wheel. The Rover wheel is smaller, so the stock Rover cable travel results in the GM throttlebody opening all the way.
I used a Dremel tool to grind off the rivets of the GM throttlebody wheel, and removed the outer half, which gave me a flat spot that I could weld the Rover wheel to. Next, I welded the GM cruise control post to it. It’s not real pretty, but works good.
Thanks Tracecollier. Nice idea to make that work ! I need to learn how to weld !
Hi All. Engine swap progressing. Checked all connections and hooked up battery to do a couple of cranks. Dash lights stayed on after key was turned off. Specifically, brake, oil, hill decent, service engine, trip/odometer light. Had to disconnect battery to get them to turn off. When reconnected battery they did not come back on. Any ideas what I hooked up wrong? Thanks for any help as always.
Hi All. Engine swap progressing. Checked all connections and hooked up battery to do a couple of cranks. Dash lights stayed on after key was turned off. Specifically, brake, oil, hill decent, service engine, trip/odometer light. Had to disconnect battery to get them to turn off. When reconnected battery they did not come back on. Any ideas what I hooked up wrong? Thanks for any help as always.
Possible bad ground connection. I would wait until everything gets connected / you are ready to run before troubleshooting this further. It could be circuit feedback from something not hooked up, etc.
