Is your purge valve hooked up to the Rover Evap system? If it is, the Evap system may be running a test a causing a minor temporary vacuum leak. It runs the test after the truck has been off a few minutes.

 

The purge/evap system is not hooked up. I used a block off plate to delete the LS solenoid on the manifold. But, it did behave this way before I deleted the evap.

 

I'm in the middle of my LS swap now. I have egr and evap block offs on the intake now.

I'm curious how the rest of the world dealt with the Rover side of the evap. My directions, IIRC say to unplug the pump down under the truck and I forget what happens to the cannister on the firewall.

That fuel tank is venting to that, correct?

 

For those that moved the battery to the drivers side and ran the intake to the passengers side what modifications needed to be made?

I assume longer positive and negative battery cables? Custom battery mount and some sort of heat shield for the air intake?

has anyone tried sourcing a UK RHD battery and air box? I assume they’re on opposite sides from ours?

 

How is the LS swap going ?

 

Any update on when new kits will be for sale? I’ve emailed ACE with no avail

 

Okay, this is likely a no brainer but on my LS swap the temps slowly climb after about 4 miles of steep grade especially when towing a trailer or my Samurai. Once I pull over and set for a few minutes the temp slowly comes down to normal and I can continue for another mile or so. I am still using the stock radiator but have installed a custom shroud with dual flex a lite low profile fans that meet the cfm requirements of the LS engine. I am using the stock transmission cooler because I bought the custom transmission lines that connect nicely to the stock cooler. I suspect the transmission is getting hot while towing and also the stock radiator may not be quite up to task. I see 3 row aluminum radiators on ebay but just wondering what cure others have used for transmission and engine additional cooling. Other than extreme conditions like Monarch pass and Wolfcreek Pass I've had zero issues when not towing. This beast has been flawless for 15K miles and am loving it. I have consistently gotten over 15 mpg and even gotten as high as 16 at altitude while towing my Samurai. What a great conversion. Thanks again for any help. The Captain Aaron fix of moving the battery cable away from the ckps has been a perfect fix for over 10k miles so thanks again. Wonderful swap and I get many questions about it.

 

I went through a few different cooling setups and found the perfect one. With this HD clutch and fan your temps driving will stay low. 100 here in omaha last week wouldn't go over 185. Mountain trips fully loaded through the IKE gauntlet195.

 

Thanks for your reply. I actually have that fan blade and a heavy duty fan clutch combo in the box setting there in my shop. I went for the electric fan option with the low profile flex a lite because the hd fan clutch assembly was going to be very close to the radiator and I was going to have to remove my radiator to install the assembly or at least it appeared that way. Also didnt want the constant fan noise coming from under hood and the extra pull on the belt with the odd belt tension issues. Do you use a shroud around the fan as in the stock rover shroud? How about transmission temps? I see Allisport.com has a new direct swap transmission cooler with 3x the cooling capacity of the stock unit and is completely bolt on and go. Thinking about this cooler for the transmission. Anyone have this cooler?

 

I have the upper half of the shroud installed but lower wouldn't work so its chopped half way down. I dont have a trans temp gauge setup. However I did have the allisport radiator and noticed absolutely 0 difference in cooling, and it sprung a leak after about a year. So I'm skeptical of their products.