Thanks for the pictures. Looks like maybe the stock water pump has extra material in that location. I was debating on whether or not to replace it (100k on it), so I guess I'll be doing that now.

On another note, where is everyone mounting their GM ECUs?

 

Wow gorgeous motor photo above.

The wife doesn't like the glovebox mounting location, I suppose the jack location under the hood isn't bad. Though actually I would like it against the firewall if possible, I'm going to be taking a harder look very soon when I've got the wiring figured out. I would imagine I could fit it on the passenger firewall in the engine bay as well but I've not heard of it done yet. It'd need a baffle/splash guard but that's not too difficult to make. I would have thought I could stuff it behind the glovebox somewhere but maybe there just isn't room, though if there is, I'll try.

Not sure if it's the Covid mess or what but nobody has replied of the three companies I reached out to for PCM reprogramming. That's one thing I've still left to do.

 

If you're looking for someone that programs ls motor my neighbor said this guy programmed his LS motor in his Jeep I haven't call yet I'm far from that point

 

Not a bad idea on the water pump / thermostat. I did mine as preventative maintenance. The previous owner must have not changed the coolant much, because there was nasty buildup in there.

I put the GM ECM in the glovebox, mainly because I have two batteries so no jack bay and am relocating the window washer reservoir to the space between the fusebox and firewall from the spot under the bumper. Because the GM ECM connectors are so big and the wire hole in the firewall is small, I pushed the all the LS engine connections through from the inside. It would be easier to put the ECM in the engine bay if you have a good spot, then only some of the wires have to go through the firewall hole.

And 2002 Beast -- engine looks really nice!

 

Hey all, maybe this will be self explanatory once I start plugging things in but which section of our harness contains the connector for the coolant temp sensor that's on the passenger side of our radiators?
From my understanding there are three coolant temp sensors.

1. Driver's side of the LS engine - will connect to the LS harness
2. Old rover coolant temp sensor that was in the Rover's throttle body - screwed into the in-line adapter that we had to tap to M12x1.5 in the coolant line that runs near the top of the radiator
3. Green colored plastic female coolant temp sensor - ACE's swap guide only leaves one coolant temp sensor on the harness and I think it's for #2 above. Which harness wire connects to this one?

Thanks all!

EDIT: after more digging it looks like this second coolant temp sensor is part of the SAI system which I won't be using with the LS swap. Here's a link with more info in it: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...r-other-81349/.

 

Appreciate it, not local but better than no calls back which is what I've got from the other three I've tried. ha

 

I was thinking of putting it on the passenger side firewall where the SAI pump was originally located. Initial mounting looks promising but won't know for sure until the engine is in and I start wrapping up the wiring. Looks like there is more than enough room for it. I used a GM ECU mounting bracket. Part # 15995679

For those that have swapped the bellhousing, what process did you use? Did you just follow the install guide? That is my next big step while I wait for other parts to arrive.

 

^ Exactly what I had in mind! I wrote what I did way back but I think the instructions are just as simple honestly.

 

I like that location a lot! Not sure how exposed it is to the elements though... Would be a little concerned with water splashing up from underneath and soaking the ECU.

Some tips on the bellhousing swap...

• Mark the holes that had long bolts in them if you want. Just to be sure you remember where they go.
• Take every precaution possible to ensure the pump always has pressure applied to it. I'm thankful that I had the bolts secure by wire pulling backwards on the pump because I had a 10 second moment where the PVC pipe slipped out from between the pump and the car frame.
• Keep in mind that if the transmission is angled too high up then the LS bellhousing will contact the top of the firewall and you won't be able to get it flush with the transmission pump in order to get the bolts back in. This might have happened to me because I had the PVC pipe wedged against the car's frame rather than the subframe.
• Apply thread sealant to the bolts when you put them back in.
• Make sure you have the bottom transmission cooler hose installed before you get started. Otherwise, you'll have transmission fluid leaking out once you start moving the transmission around.
• Don't forget to refill the torque converter with transmission fluid. As mentioned in the instructions make sure the torque converter is fully seated onto the transmission pump shaft once you've swapped the bell housing.

 

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking of using a bottle jack to keep pressure on the pipe. I would have to modify the pipe on the jack end so it would stay without falling off. I'll probably need to somehow attach the jack so it doesn't fall off the front frame cross member too, but I think once it has hydraulic pressure it should stay pretty good. What size PVC pipe do you end up using, 1.5"?