***I have that I seen Grag said turn off the rear o2 Just wondering if there’s anything else[/QUOTE]****

The tuner did ask a bunch of questions not mentioned in the list, most of which he guessed the answer to knowing it was a swap. VATS is obvious to any tuner but you should certainly mention to disable it. Rear O2 sensors was an obvious guess too. He mentioned something about CEL related to O2 sensors, I figure he meant that not having em would not throw a code. He also asked if the emissions related stuff should be shut off, I said yes. I will request tomorrow a list from the tuner and see if I can compile something more official.

Since you're going in tomorrow and I'd hate to see ya left hanging, PM me for a phone number if you want to just give me a ring tomorrow if your tuner is unsure on something, I likely can answer it or get an answer quickly.

 

I have some exciting news. After much contemplation, I have decided to once again offer kits to individuals.

Why the change? A couple of reasons: First, the kit was always aimed as something a well-versed enthusiast could do in their own garage, and I would like to get back to that. Second, at this point, we have a lot more knowledge about how the kit works, and the issues that can come with it. Therefore, a lot of the questions that used to take a paragraph to answer can now be answered in a sentence or two. Third, I’ve taken a lot of common issues and questions and added them into the manual, which is now on its 6th major revision. The new manual has a much more comprehensive troubleshooting guide which has eliminated major problems. Fourth, as more kits have been made, improvements have been made to clear up production slowdowns, which has made the manufacturing process more smooth. Fifth, because of the pandemic, I have had extra time to figure out numerous smaller issues. Finally, I have given consideration to a number of individuals who have asked me to reoffer the kit. Again, this was something I always wanted to get back to, and this is the right time.

Kits are available to purchase. I make them in batches of 8 to 10, and we can usually have them ready to go in 4 weeks or less. I have been keeping several on the shelf if possible. The website has a lot more information about all this. People should email or contact me via the website to order. I do want to emphasize once again though, this is not a small undertaking to install. If you don’t want to or don’t feel comfortable doing the install, I can provide a number of shops that are available. This also seems to be a particularly good time to get used engines because I’ve seen a number of great deals for complete lift outs with engine, harness, and ECM.

Once again, thank you all for the support over the last two years. I am excited about being able to offer this to everyone once again.

 

Good to hear, I was hoping this would come to pass. The community is getting more versed as well, hopefully we can help to unload some of the tech support in forums too. My engine ran for the first time a few days ago. Just need to get a few things finalized. Excited to have it up and running and I'm working on a list of issues I came across from start to finish with photos that clear up confusion. Hopefully with everyone contributing and updated manuals the installs will get easier and easier. I know of two people within an hour of me I randomly met who are aware and wanting to buy a kit. One in Duvall, one in Redmond, it would appear the market continues to grow for them.

 

Great to hear, ACE! Welcome back

I'm getting ready to break my engine in since it's now running reliably with the swap. Before I get out on the road though I'm setting up an iPad with a dashboard to monitor essential components. One of which is the oil pressure.
Since the oil pressure sensor on the back of the LS ties into the Rover ECU would everyone agree that there is no way to monitor the Oil Pressure through the GM ECU? The oil pressure plug on my GM harness is currently unplugged and I don't believe there is room on the LS for a second oil pressure sensor.

Edit: Looks like you can use the oil pan's adapter to install a sender plate that the GM oil pressure sensor would screw into. You could also install a mechanical sensor that would run to a gauge in your cabin. Click here for thread.

 

My engine leaks oil at this same sensor point..... that'll be a fun sensor to get to today. LOL

I agree about the pressure sending issues and my thought was just a mechanical setup to a direct gauge. I often do a physical setup like this in vehicles operating out of the norm because it's just nice to know at ALL times your oil pressure, especially when you're climbing very steep hills etc where an oil pickup might run dry for a second. In my Wrangler this saved me one time perhaps! I was only a little low but the angle was insane and I could see I was not getting oil, instantly shut down and topped off with more oil.

 

Has anyone have a problem with when you try to push on the gas pedal it seems to run out of fuel and dies and it doesn’t seems like it’s priming because it takes a long time to crank before it starts

 

I would check the fuel pressure at the rail. Also would check the codes on the GM ECM. That is sort of how mine would act when I didn't have the GM MAF plugged in.

 

Mine sometimes needs a few blips for the first 15 seconds before it stabilizes and runs. Then again, no exhaust and no O2 until tomorrow when they weld up a new exhaust. Maybe that'll help.

QUESTION!!!

Belts are SCREAMING when I fire this up for a few seconds, sometimes a full minute. It's the water pump I'm pretty sure because the contact patch is quite small, as is the contact with the crank but somehow it manages. Brand new belt, maybe the tensioner is tired but sheesh it's terrible. I do see a easy solution where we route the belt on the other side of the idler pulley next to the alternator, this gives like 20% more contact patch to the water pump wheel. The problem is that pulley is smooth, I need one with teeth but maybe I can find one at autozone and improve the setup in this fashion. Or a new tensioner... Thoughts?

 

I would try a new tensioner. The one that came with my engine looked fine when I first put it on, and I had a little squeal. Then I put a wrench on it and realized how much tighter it actually could get. New tensioner solved it.

 

maf is plugged in I can see the throttle positioning working on my scanner How do you check the fuel pressure I bought that aftermarket an fuel rail And there’s a ton of codes like O2 sensors that are not there and purge And evap not there codes I’m starting to panic need this done by August because big Landover rally in Moab Utah in September I was trying to go to