Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#871
maf is plugged in I can see the throttle positioning working on my scanner How do you check the fuel pressure I bought that aftermarket an fuel rail And there’s a ton of codes like O2 sensors that are not there and purge And evap not there codes I’m starting to panic need this done by August because big Landover rally in Moab Utah in September I was trying to go to
How is your intake routed? I had issues with not enough air coming through the factory airbox unless I cut out the internal baffling, although I don't imagine that would be an issue at idle. Also, the position of MAF is important for the LS.
#872
The Land Rover ECU will have codes. The GM ECU should have no codes, but if your tuner did not remove the emissions codes, then those will show up if those sensors are not hooked up. The engine should run fine though despite the emissions codes regardless. With the aftermarket fuel rail you will need to get an AN to fuel pressure gauge adapter to test fuel pressure. I never had fuel pressure issues unless I had tach issues though.
How is your intake routed? I had issues with not enough air coming through the factory airbox unless I cut out the internal baffling, although I don't imagine that would be an issue at idle. Also, the position of MAF is important for the LS.
How is your intake routed? I had issues with not enough air coming through the factory airbox unless I cut out the internal baffling, although I don't imagine that would be an issue at idle. Also, the position of MAF is important for the LS.
#873
#874
My Disco went off to the muffler shop today, first drive, a few miles. Strangely over a few bumps I lost power to the GM ECU supplied on port #19 off and on while driving, then it died completely. I had to supply power to it alternatively and I'm not sure why that is, all I know is the original supply is giving power but it's not turning on until I use another port, thank god there's extra options.
Very interesting routing, I too used the stock airbox though I reached it through a longer path. I was able to go without modifying it but it's a longer route and eats up some space. I'll get some pics up of it for further options. I'm surprised you could fit the fan in there with the air intake angle, or have you not installed the fan yet? EDIT>>> I see you avoided the whole thing with electric fans, ha! That works!
Very interesting routing, I too used the stock airbox though I reached it through a longer path. I was able to go without modifying it but it's a longer route and eats up some space. I'll get some pics up of it for further options. I'm surprised you could fit the fan in there with the air intake angle, or have you not installed the fan yet? EDIT>>> I see you avoided the whole thing with electric fans, ha! That works!
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; 07-26-2020 at 11:19 PM.
The following users liked this post:
whowa004 (07-28-2020)
#875
Fair enough. I'll order one now on your recommendation. Seems a reasonable gamble. I tried the alternate belt path, it IS an improvement btw and seems to run fine.
#876
Quickly roughed in area to be removed.
This provides about 1.75 inches of travel but do note, the area to the left that protudes in that square box shape is very thin and to maximize travel you'll need to simply go all the way through it carrying the cut depth on the right side, all the way through on leftward.
This fitting on amazon worked quite well!You can see one side fits VERY close before the bend is made, perfect for making extra room against the fan. Spectre Performance 9781 Black 4" 90 Degree Boot Brand: Spectre
You can see here my piping all found on amazon to use the factory airbox as it sits. There's (2) 90's that are cheap plastic elbows on amazon "Spectre Performance 86981 Intake Tube
Brand: Spectre". These are the two under the compressor that you can hardly see but look chrome. They work well enough for now. The first elbow that fits the airbox so nicely is what I ordered from ACE recommendation sheet. the rest is all 3" or 4" bends as needed.
Further showing intake, I'll probably hardline this entire path at some point here.
I moved the belt to the other side of the idler pulley, this greatly reduced the squealing but perhaps I should find a grooved idler for it? Not sure if I'll keep it this way.
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; 07-27-2020 at 08:13 AM.
#877
#878
I put 20 miles on the swap today while breaking in my engine and trying to seat the rings. Will make an extensive post one of these weekend with full details but I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out.
Just need to figure out an error code for low voltage on my cam sensor and finish up the purge valve wiring. I've written off the fuel tank pressure wiring until there's a formal solution for it. Til then I'll just keep living places that don't require emissions testing haha. If everything feels solid I'll be taking the car on a 320 mile round trip this weekend to go backpacking but doing a short local trip to Richmond, VA first.
The following users liked this post:
whowa004 (07-28-2020)
#879
^ Sure does! ha
Yeah, soon as I've a little free time I plan to put together a full run down of photos in a thread that can be referenced for specifically install photos that we can all contribute to, this will act as a reference for new folks to use. I think as we've agreed upon, photos would have helped us both greatly.
Glad to hear you put some miles on! That's awesome! You probably know to use break-in (at least non-synthetic) oil to help seat the rings better. I'm sure I'll have a few codes remaining but I can deal with that. WA state dropped emissions testing a year or so ago, I'm in the clear and even when I lived in CA, I had a way around it. Jealous about the trip, sounds like fun! Better get some good miles on that rig quick and be sure she's ready for it but at this point, we know how to T-shoot it somewhat well.
-Greg
Yeah, soon as I've a little free time I plan to put together a full run down of photos in a thread that can be referenced for specifically install photos that we can all contribute to, this will act as a reference for new folks to use. I think as we've agreed upon, photos would have helped us both greatly.
Glad to hear you put some miles on! That's awesome! You probably know to use break-in (at least non-synthetic) oil to help seat the rings better. I'm sure I'll have a few codes remaining but I can deal with that. WA state dropped emissions testing a year or so ago, I'm in the clear and even when I lived in CA, I had a way around it. Jealous about the trip, sounds like fun! Better get some good miles on that rig quick and be sure she's ready for it but at this point, we know how to T-shoot it somewhat well.
-Greg
The following users liked this post:
danyboyGA (08-29-2022)
#880
Small bit of info. The new tensioner didn't fix my belt whine but it helped substantially. I did find one other free improvement that fixed it I think, at least in warm weather like today.
It turns out that the idler pulley shown under the temp sensor in my above photos can be replaced with my tensioner pulley that I just removed to replace with a new tensioner. The bolt needs to be reused that comes from the engine but the pulley itself has grooves and this allows the belt to be wrapped on the other side of the pulley which increases the contact patch on the water pump and cured the problem. I don't know if I described that well..... I used the worn out tensioner pulley in place of the smooth pulley right next to the water pump.
If anyone else experiences belt whine, I suggest this be done. Perhaps ACE will chime in on this, I'd suggest this be an update option for all, you just need a grooved pulley that fits.
It turns out that the idler pulley shown under the temp sensor in my above photos can be replaced with my tensioner pulley that I just removed to replace with a new tensioner. The bolt needs to be reused that comes from the engine but the pulley itself has grooves and this allows the belt to be wrapped on the other side of the pulley which increases the contact patch on the water pump and cured the problem. I don't know if I described that well..... I used the worn out tensioner pulley in place of the smooth pulley right next to the water pump.
If anyone else experiences belt whine, I suggest this be done. Perhaps ACE will chime in on this, I'd suggest this be an update option for all, you just need a grooved pulley that fits.