Any news? How's everyone doing? I've been daily driving, up to 225miles so far.

 

Awesome to hear! 100 miles on mine so far. Here's what I've still got on my to-do list...

1. Retrofitting the existing airbox.
2. Startup taking 2-4 seconds before engine fires. My camshaft sensor is throwing an error which affects firing order but it could also be fuel supply issues. Maybe throw in a new fuel pump.
3. Vehicle speed sensor - not reading a vehicle speed on the GM ECM. Wiring appears to be spot on so it could be the conversion box that ACE provided. Might try swapping the VSS + and - wires.
4. Emissions - just need to connect the purge valve. No idea where to start with the gas tank pressure wiring.
5. Battery drain - Will check grounds and solder all my wiring.
6. Rear main seal leak - specific issue with the LM4 aluminum block not with the swap.
7. Idle issues with A/C on. Anyone else dealing with this?
8. Whistling sound coming from holes in flywheel

 

What is your idle RPM sitting at? I had similar issues before I bumped the idle up from 600 to 750.

Something like this might help: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgJo-vD_BwE

 

I've experienced a few of these things as well.

2.Startup taking 2-4 seconds before engine fires. My camshaft sensor is throwing an error which affects firing order but it could also be fuel supply issues. Maybe throw in a new fuel pump.
I had this with leaking fuel injectors. I did not have a cam sensor code though. Check your fuel pressure before replacing your pump. After replacing the bad injectors it fires right up.

3. Vehicle speed sensor - not reading a vehicle speed on the GM ECM. Wiring appears to be spot on so it could be the conversion box that ACE provided. Might try swapping the VSS + and - wires.
Same here, even changed out ECB box and the results are the same. Let us know if swapping the + and - vss wires works.

8. Whistling sound coming from holes in flywheel
To me this was a big one. It drove me crazy until I found some rubber plugs to put in some of the holes. After plugging 6 of the holes, I could barely hear the noise. I actually just sent my flex plate back to get exchanged because of this though, as I don't know how long those plugs will hold out with the heat. Hoping the kit is using a different flex plate now.

 

2. Mine fires right up but needs throttle input added and VERY slowly released over a 5-10 second period of time while it re-learns idle every time I drive it.
3. Haven't checked, probably should....
4. Haven't touched it.
6. I might have this too... if so it's very slight.
7. Nope, no issues at all once it's running 10 seconds, runs perfect a/c or not.
8. Yes, need to plug those holes up with some plastic snap in pieces probably from local hardware store or even some simple hot-glue or JB weld.

 

Mine has the same starting problem I put a new Land Rover fuel pump didn’t fix it so I put a drop in tank after market LS swap fuel pump and wired it in to the ls harness and it still take a lot of cranking to start

 

Tuning?

 

I thank that’s what’s wrong with it but it’s going to be a little while before I can take it to this guy I found that does LS Tuning I sent the differentials off for gearing up grade

 

Idle is consistently above 700 when I first fire it up. Considering i'm in an open fuel loop it's not surprising that the idle is fine. With AC off i'm seeing 720-730 RPMs. With AC on it dips to 700-720. I'll also get idle surge when pulling up to a stop light and sometimes the idle will fall so low after highway driving that the engine dies. I have a feeling that my issue is with the tune I have on it since I have a 2004 GTO tune and a new more aggressive cam. Possibly a bad Idle air control valve?

Thanks for that bellhousing block off plate, I'll definitely try that out.

Fuel pressure is ~54 psi? while running. Not sure if it drops while sitting still. Dirty fuel injectors is possible, although I dont have any misfires.
Swapped the polarities today on the VSS wires which did nothing. Confirmed that the Rover ECU does give a vehicle speed on my bluetooth scanner so its something on the swap side. I'm thinking I need to solder all the wires properly.
Did you send your flexplate back to ACE? I might need to drop the transmission so might as well replace the flexplate while i'm under there.

 

I’d focus on fixing that camshaft position code. That can cause all sorts of issues like you describe, like the slow starting, open loop, idle irregularities. Especially if you changed the cam. The idle fuel map could also play a role. Depends on the specific code you're getting as well.

Keep in mind also that the early LS engines have the rear cam timing trigger in the back of the cam, but some other cams only support the front cam sensor trigger on the cam gear, meaning if you want certain cams, you also have to switch the front cover, cam sensor, and timing gear to run them. I’m not saying this is happening to you, but its something for others to be aware of in the future.