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Here We Go Again, My LSX Swap Thread

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  #131  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
If memory serves, the flashing m and s lights are usually a dying battery or a grounding problem.

I'm betting you have a floating ground that you missed when you installed the engine.

Possibly, but I completely removed the TCU from under the driver seat, and the lights still flash. I can't figure how the IDM is even getting a signal to light them up. I studied the Rave diagrams and those lead me to believe that the signal comes from the TCU, but apparently not so.
 
  #132  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:54 AM
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I like the sound of that...."serious testing"
 
  #133  
Old 05-23-2014, 08:38 AM
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could it be that you dont have the proper voltage, most american car run 12.6-12.9vt alternator output; LR need over 13vt output or the ecm is it as low voltage?
 
  #134  
Old 05-23-2014, 09:21 AM
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Good idea! I'll check the Ultra Gauge and see what the numbers are. I know it varies a little depending on when the alternator is charging. This might be a good reason to buy some Dakota Digital gauges to slip in that wonderful plastic dash. I think this one will fit.
 
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  #135  
Old 05-24-2014, 08:58 AM
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Amazing work. Keep it up. More pics and videos please..
 
  #136  
Old 05-24-2014, 09:12 AM
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Wonder if an old-school carburetted 289 or 283 would work in a Disco? You'd avoid all the electrical connection nightmares, and could install mechanical gauges for oil, water temp, volt, tach, etc?
 
  #137  
Old 05-26-2014, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by socal1200r
Wonder if an old-school carburetted 289 or 283 would work in a Disco? You'd avoid all the electrical connection nightmares, and could install mechanical gauges for oil, water temp, volt, tach, etc?

The actual feat of making your swap engine run is really easy. The challenges come in making all the accessories work properly.
A short list would be:
Transmission
Transfer Case
Drive Shafts (2)
Motor Mounts
Transmission mounts and crossmember
AC
Exhaust
Radiator
Cooler Lines
Power Steering
Shifter
Cruise Control
Fans, Mech and Electric
And after all that, the hood still has to close....


Whatever engine you choose this is no easy swap, but I have proved that it can be done. Deep pockets are not required, however an extensive knowledge of mechanics and some mad skills are required.


70 Miles on the replacement 4L65E (170 miles total), I plan to drive it to work this week, that will be good for 250 miles.


No joy on the AC yet, I had a failure on one of my home made hose blocks. I need more time to get that right.
 
  #138  
Old 05-26-2014, 07:31 PM
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In any event, you're to be commended for starting this project and seeing it thru to completion. I don't have such skills, tools, or patience, and if my engine went out, I'd either replace it with another one, or salvage the truck. I just couldn't deal with your long list of potential problems in swapping a different engine!
 
  #139  
Old 05-26-2014, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Shade Tree
Good idea! I'll check the Ultra Gauge and see what the numbers are. I know it varies a little depending on when the alternator is charging. This might be a good reason to buy some Dakota Digital gauges to slip in that wonderful plastic dash. I think this one will fit.

The speedo only goes up to 160! With that powerplant you should be running the Baja! Great work, videos of it running and driving would be awesome.
 
  #140  
Old 05-26-2014, 11:40 PM
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Now that you've replaced the engine for a better one, you don't have to worry about all the Land Rover engine quirks, but you can still look forward to the other quirks the Land Rover comes along with. Cool thread.
 


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