#4 gets my vote if you sort out the sensor it seems best fit

 

Thanks for the input Dusty! That does seem to be most logical choice. I guess this is a huge part of that learning curve where I am plowing some new ground for others that follow. Reading between the lines.... you will be best served to start out with an LSX engine compatible with a 4L80E. Get a 4WD 4L80E unit, leave the LT230 in the stock mounting location, mount the proper transmission to TC adapter and then build it forward from there. Don't really know if that will work because of the added length of the Mark's adapter, but it's worth a try.


I think I will call Mark's and get some dimensions and ask questions about the VSS.

 

GM Gen 4 conversion including LS - Defender Source

 

Yeah, subscribed to that one and another on the same forum. But,.... in a Defender, and 6L80E (much newer) or he sez also the NV4500. I have PM'd him asking for availability on the conversion adapter weeks ago with no response, also have not seen any evidence of anyone being able to obtain one of these kits, maybe I missed it. Sounds like the Mark's adapter is the way go for now, it might fit a 6L80E also, I think the spline count is the same 32 ?? Not sure about the bolt pattern. It's only money!


Go on ebay and price an engine/transmission from a Camaro with a 6L80E and LS3. That's what he said he used. Then you need to convert the transmission to 4WD (complete teardown and replace the shaft) then buy the adapter, then throw some more money at it! Probably could buy a used Ford Raptor for less.


I started this project trying to keep to some sort of reasonable budget, just because of what a 2000 DII is worth. The most reasonable number would be whatever the cost would be to buy a good replacement Rover block and heads, and put that back in the truck. (Failure was overheated/cracked block and maybe warped heads). So far I am way under that number but if I buy another transmission (no. 3) and an adapter (probably $900 after shipping) and the kit for VSS, two more propshafts and most likely an extended TC case shift cable, I will need to sell off some leftover parts to make budget.
What's a 2000 model ZF transmission worth?

 

Shade Tree, great work on this. I'm planning a similar swap this summer (bought a disco 2 with a blown head gasket and I'm fixing that now to get it running for the winter and then plan to do the swap in the summer).

In discussing this project, my partner and I have been considering some of the open items you've been discussing here and I wanted to throw a couple thoughts your way.

1) We discussed transmission tunnel clearance and we were leaning toward doing a 1-2" bodylift if we ran into clearance issues. Any reason you chose the route you did (cutting up the floor) versus a few rubber spacers for a body lift? I'm not really a huge body lift fan, but I think it would be the simplest way to go and with rock sliders under the rockers I don't think it would be too noticeable. This would also give you a little extra hood clearance, which seemed to be really tight.

2) We were thinking of running an NP205. I believe (could be wrong) that just Ford units were passenger side drop, while the Chevy's, Dodge's, etc. were driver's side drops - so you should be able to find one to run right-side-up with the rover gear. Adapter kits are readily available that include everything you need for either the 4L80E or 4L60E for right around $500. This is a rock solid TC choice for any off-road application IMHO.

3) Have you considered swapping axles? I think the axles are the next weak point. We want to be right around 450hp/450ft-lbs. from an iron block 5.3 (which is easily done). I was thinking we would run that setup 'til we break an axle shaft or something, and at that point would swap in upgraded axles. I was planning on Dana 60's from an old Chevy (driver side diff). If you want to run your existing TC for now, you could go with Dana 60's from an old Ford (passenger side diff) and you should be able to run it right-side-up. Also this would give you provisions for an e-brake....not to mention a rock solid axle setup. And of course you could always find an NP205 with passenger side drop from an old Ford if you wanted to upgrade at a later date.

We were just discussing the driveshaft angle today and were planning cardon joint front / single u-joint rear and I think we calculated ≈18° driveshaft angle based on very rough estimations, so I'm glad to see we were on track there. How are these holding up? Have you done any off-roading yet?

 

Like you said, not a body lift fan, but also I didn't know the clearance was an issue until I got way into it. You have the advantage of knowing these potential problems before you start....You're welcome by the way!

NP205's are the holy grail of Transfer Cases... to some. I think they are not so cheap, very heavy, inferior low range and you still have the huge angle on the rear driveshaft. NP205C with 27 spline no core $1275 plus shipping.


NO! Not interested in fixing what ain't broke yet.

My front is fine right now with the current TC. Better angle than stock, only single u-joints used. The rear shaft is the problem, bad angles on both ends, it might take two double cardans if that is even possible. Probably not.



Nothing in the drive line has exploded yet. TC has some growling noises that are concerning. Rear shaft runs at a very steep angle in two planes.
I ran the truck on a lift with the suspension at ride height. Got it up to 60mph for a couple of minutes just to be able to listen to everything working at speed. Nothing flew out from under there so all is good for now.


I have several obstacles in my back yard that I use to test the suspension and flex. I have run it through all of that many times, and a few hundred road miles. (only about 100 miles since the 2" Terrafirma lift). The lift put some new stresses on the rear shaft and I had to modify two crossmembers for the added movement in the front shaft.
I really need a running buddy to go with to give it good test, and not too far from the house either. You never know what will break the fist time out.

 

Every Ford since the Dawn of time is Drivers side Drop. Every IFS chevy, and Dodge that is newer than say 1993 or IFS (Dakota Durango) will be Drivers side drop.

And there are 3:1 low range kits available for the NP 205. I tend to favor some of the chain driven cases, e.g. BW 1356, or NV241/271 etc. Lightweight aluminum cases, and they seem to be reliable.

So "our rigs" prefer SFA Dodge Chevy t-cases.

Back to the axle swap, while fixing what aint broke yet may make no sense, Scout 44's are the same screwy offset we are, or FSJ, e.g. 1976 (?) - 1993 Grand Wagoneer have typically Dan 44's and the later ones are Driver Side drop and would be the perfect width for Swapping.

I'm electing to go ton's under mine, simply because I bought the running driving donor rig for less than the cost of Ashcroft shafts for my DII.

Already planning on doing a different trans/t-case, and motive power, so Driver Side drop also made sense to me.

^ that translated into English:
5.3/6.2 4l60e/Np243 Waggy 44's. Chromo's and a locker + gears... Bomb proof, good mpg killer power, and a helluva drivetrain.

Plus... if the wiring is swapped over, one can maintain the "Auto4wd" setting (loved it in my bourbon) and replicate as close tot he Rover AWD setup as possible with this type of swap.

 

Answered my own question just by reading the information already in front of me!!
4L80E - LT230



The 4L80-E is a 4-speed overdrive transmission. They are fitted behind the current Chevy V8 petrol and diesel EFI engines. The gears are shifted electronically by the engine management computer. After market computers are available in the USA that enable the transmission to be used behind early carburetor engines. The ECM requires a speed sensor to enable smooth gear changes at various speeds. Marks 4WD Adaptors manufacture a speed sensor kit that bolts to the rear of the transfer case in place of the tin hat. The speed sensor is an inductive type and directly reads the main output shaft speed.


The 4L80-E has the following gear ratios: 1st=2.48:1, 2nd=1.48:1, 3rd=1.00:1, 4th=.75:1


The kit is designed to use a GM transmission from a 4WD vehicle, the shaft stick out length is 79 MM/3.1". However, the 2WD version can be used with modification to the 4L80-E output shaft and removal of steel sleeve pressed onto the output shaft is also required.


The 4L80-E has an overall case length of 670 mm/26.375", when coupled to the 209 mm/8.22" long adaptor housings giving you an overall transmission length of 879 mm/34.595". In most installations, the transfer case will need to be relocated. The new adaptor housing has provision for the hi-low lever to be mounted to the top using the standard linkages and lever from the original vehicle. NOTE: The housing is drilled and tapped to accept the hi-low lever bracket, from either the 3-speed torque flite or 4-speed ZF transmission. The housing also has a drilled and tapped pad on the left side to enable easy mounting into the vehicle. NOTE: The housing is drilled and tapped to accept the transmission-mounting bracket, from either the 3-speed torque flite or 4-speed ZF transmission.


The new coupler shaft supplied in the kit fits over the 4L80-E, 32T main out put shaft and into the transfer case, input gear. The new shaft is retained in the transfer case using a new bolt and special washer supplied in the kit.

 

this seems great. ssensor provision and the hi/low bracket, using lt230. this sounds great. so not a crazy angle on the driveshaft.....just mainly a length change?
I will be by, next week, to have a look at the finished product....as I am sure you will have it all buttoned up by then.

 

Thanks!


Can be found re-manned on eBay for around $500, or even less if you want to rebuild yourself - they are very simple to rebuild. I haven't seen much in the way of lower low-range gearsets available, and I would agree they could be a bit lower. I think the case itself does not leave much room for larger gears. Still, with an extra 150-200 ft/lbs of torque I think we'll be alright It's hard to beat the durability of the NP205.


I should have clarified I was talking only about the rear shaft. Double cardon at the TC (front) end and single u-joint at the diff (rear) end. You wouldn't want cardons (double u-joint) at each end - it would flop around all over the place and most likely break something immediately. lol.


I'm glad to hear everything is holding up! Looking forward to following your progress and possibly picking your brain when I run into trouble myself!!