Yup, plumbing couplers and S&D pipe. Heat the plastic pipe with a torch or heat gun and you have a custom air intake. 90's , 45's and other fittings are also fair game.

Those tight bend rubber 90's can be had from Summit or Jegs if it's in your budget.

 

have you come up with an answer for the tranny and transfer case?

 

I have installed the 4L60E and I hope it gets to stay in there. I am waiting on a friend who bought a wrecked Yukon Denali for the engine only, it's a 6.0 liter. The plan is for him to deliver it to my house and let me salvage all the 4wd stuff I need, dash switches, harness, TC computer and more. If it is a different TC than the one I have, I will get it also.


There are about 8 different combinations of AWD setups in Yukons over the years (I don't know yet what year it is), I hope it doesn't have a 4L80E, that would completely mess up my whole plan. Input shaft is definitely different, so the TC's would not interchange. Some of the setups also had a 4L60E with different spline shafts, so I cross my fingers and wait for the wrecker to bring my Christmas prize. The wife is gonna be pissed!

 

Subscribed!

 

Power steering pump and relocation bracket installed, pressure and return lines finished for PS pump. Lined it up as good as I could, may have to fine adjust alignment after belt is installed.
Both exhaust manifolds installed. Finished butchering the left side, had to cut the flange completely off, then weld a 45 deg long sweep piece of tubing inside the manifold. I could not get a grinder in there far enough to notch the frame, wouldn't have helped anyway.
Rerouted one of the AC lines across to the other side to meet the LS compressor. (See picture .. between where the radiator would be and the front of the motor.)
About halfway finished installing transmission cooler lines.
Intake, coils and fuel line all finished.
I blocked off the return line on the 5.3 L GM manifold, it was designed with the regulator mounted on the manifold and controlled by engine vacuum with a return line back to the tank. I am planning on the LR in-tank pump and regulator supplying the correct pressure without the need for a return line. Hope that works....
Water pump installed, AC Compressor installed.
New bracket built for the shifter cable. The cable is about 3-1/2" inches short, so it will have to be extended with some shade tree engineering.
I need to figure how to defeat the shifter interlock so I can check for proper shifting through all the gears. (Maybe it will work if I just hook up the battery)
With a straight edge laid across the top of the fenders from side to side, the alternator is about 1-1/2" higher than the top of the fenders. Hopefully the hood is dished enough to not interfere.

See the last picture... steering shaft is real close to the manifold heat shield. It is not hitting it but when that big torque monster starts rocking and rolling it might.

Working on a dozen parts of the project all at once, made a few mistakes.. throw some more money at it and keep going.
I am saving the wiring to do maybe next week. I have found that it takes full concentration on that to get it right. If you get a wire hooked up wrong, it could take some time to sort it out.

 

Great project! Best of luck with the swap.

 

Sorry for the long hiatus, that pesky need to make a living at something really gets in the way of my hobbies. Also, two holidays and end of year taxes.. and by the way SWMBO totaled her 2009 Traverse LTZ the day after Christmas. Fun times.


Well back to it, I'm sure some of you thought (or hoped) I had given up on this project, to the contrary my friends. Progress is being made ever so slowly.
The wrecked 2002 Yukon Denali was finally delivered on New Year's Eve.
Bad news is, someone has already salvaged the AWD computer and switches.
The truck was supposed to be complete except for the 17" wheels, oh-well.
The transfer case is completely different than the one from the 2004 Envoy. I'll pull it out and see if it will be a better fit in the Land Rover.


Air inlet has been a much bigger problem than I expected. When you go with the mechanical fan instead of electric, most of the good space between the throttle body and the radiator is consumed. I won't bore you with the 4 different setups I have tried that didn't work. But, I have ordered a cold air inlet kit for a 5.3L GM pickup truck from e-bay. About $55 and I hope to get it next week. It takes that Fed-Ex guy a long time to drive from Kalifornia!


Ran into an unexpected snag on the wiring harness. The fuse box on the Envoy harness was on the driver (left) side of the truck, all those wires need to go to the right side of the LR. I could flip and rework the harness to the other side, but many of the wires would still have to be extended longer, and, the fancy GM plastic engine cover would not work either. So I have decided just to make an extension harness for the 30 or so wires that need to go to the other side, it will be about 9 ft long and mostly made from a rats nest of wires salvaged from the Yukon.


My Envoy engine was missing the AC hose so I hoped the one from the Yukon would fit (You need the hose block that bolts to the compressor), but in the infinite wisdom of Government Motors, they have decided to use a dozen different compressors, brackets and hoses on all the different LS family engines. The AC stuff from the 6.0 Yukon is totally different than the 5.3 truck.


Good news, it appears the top radiator hose from the Yukon is a good fit for the LS equipped LR, just needs to be shortened a little. Even if it's a worn out hose, at least I know what to buy that will fit. (Probably any top hose for a 5.3 - 6.0 GM truck will work)


Transmission cooler lines are all installed with no problems, power steering lines all installed, LR ECM and Cruise computers are both laying on a pile of salvage parts. Which brings up another problem I was not planning on.


Who would have thought the Land Rover AC computer would be so inter-connected to the ECM? Need to find a couple more wires and I hope to be able to give the AC computer the proper signals to make it happy.


I also need to send a "Park" position signal to the BCU so the stupid key will come out of the ignition. Hopefully the GM signal will be in a suitable format to please the LR Gods.


If it doesn't snow this weekend in CA, (that's Central Alabama for you yanks) I plan to make some more good progress. If there are any particular pictures anyone would like me to make, just ask.

 

I've got to say, I really admire the work you're doing on this. Engineering a GM motor to fit in a Rover is a real feat. There are so many complications--I would have ducked out a long time ago.

 

He was talking about going to the moon, this swap should be easier but may not be cheaper......

 

There's a very easy fix for this. The lock that holds the key in is on the back of the cylinder, and is powered by two wires that plug in the cylinder. Just unplug that connection and you should be good.

Now you only have 999,999 other problems to solve.