I have purchased said vehicle a few months back knowing it had a few "issues". I have since had the fuel pump changed along with the knock sensor, intake butterfly valves (2), both vacuum lines and new Battery.

Now that being said I have only had a short time of clarity with this vehicle, meaning for about 2 hours it ran great after I replaced the butterfly valves. It continues to send random codes of P0302-P0303 accompanied with P0327 Sometimes it even sends the O2 sensor. It always has a dead battery if left for more than 2 or 3 days. I have been told that it could be caused by a dead short. At idle it is choppy, the accelerator hesitates at first then becomes responsive at higher RPM but still feels ruff. I also have been able to clear P0302 after I have "burped" the fuel rail. (dont even ask why we figured that out) but it does go away momentarily.

Does anyone have any information about what I might start to look into at this point. Thank you.

 

Check compression, verify there is no coolant loss. Re-bleed the fuel rail with a cold engine. Air should move to the top.

 

rtonder,

Hey thanks for the help. I have found that after I had bled off the fuel line it seemed to have fixed the problem except now in the morning it went back to the exact same thing. So I am thinking I have a fuel line issue on top of other things. Going to check on a possible fuel cap problem. Any other ideas are always welcome.

Thanks again for your help

 

The 327 code is an uncommon code, and may be as simple as a problem with the connector that is located on the throttle body end of the intake manifold. The knock sensors are below the lower intakes, one on each bank. If theres an open circuit the EMS will play it safe and keep the timing retarded. Note that the knock sensor is used by the EMS to maximize the advance on the timing for power. It may also give up on the idle control (the Freelander EMS regulates idle by varying the timing first, then goes to air/fuel if timing is not enough.) Either way, having a faulty or non functional knock sensor can cause real poor performance.

The misfire codes may be precipitated by the knock sensor, but probably not. Try this test: disconnect one of the 02 sensors that is in front of the cats. The one in front by the radiator is the easiest to get at. Once disconnected, the EMS will go to a predetermined map on fuel where the injectors are not controlled by the O2 sensors. You will get a code of course, but see if it drives better. If it runs better, hook them back up and pour some good injector cleaner in the tank and run it on the highway for 50 miles or so.

Disconnect your battery and park it for a few days. If the battery still goes dead, it's just a bad battery.