I'm new to the Land Rover world and I just purchased a 2004 Freelander that I knew was in need of some engine and transmission work. I first want to get it running right before I go to the Transmission. The check engine light is on and it is running rough. I ran a scan and these are the codes that came up:

P1319 Manufacture controlled Ignition system or misfire
P0174 Bank 2 system running too lean
P1472 Manufacture Controlled Auxiliary emission controls
P1775 Manufacture Controlled Transmission
P 0606 Engine Control Module/Powertrain control Module Processor Pending
P0301, 0302 0303 Misfires on Cylinders 1,2,& 3

Just looking for some advise on where to start?

 

The misfire codes can point to a number of things, the least expensive and easiest to correct are 1) the spark plugs, 2), the coils. The cylinders are numbered 1,3,5 for the front bank, and 2,4,6 for the rear bank, starting from the front of the engine or the end nearest the coolant bottle.

Do a compression test. If you have at least 120 it points to plugs or coils. If OK, then check fuel. I've found that a weak fuel pump will give you misfires and the lean engine codes. Sounds odd I know, but if fuel pressure is low, the injectors seem to lean out on start up and won't recover.

Start with the above and see what happens.

 

Thanks, I'll work on the suggestions this weekend and let you know.

Marty S
04 Freelander 1st Land Rover

 

Ok, I First checked the compression on all cylinders. They range from 180 to 220. Then I changed all of the plugs and replaced all of the coils. Seems to run smooth but there is this strange knock??? It got too late so I didn't try to take it down the road. Any thoughts??

Marty

 

I found the noise, it is coming from the Timing belt on Cylinders 1,3 & 5 closest to the Battery. It sounds and looks like it is slapping the plastic cover on one side. What do you think?

Marty
2004 Freelander 80K

 

Timing belt tensioner could be shot, if your sure that the noise is coming from inside the timing cover only thing to do is open it up and look.

 

There is no tensioner on the rear timing belts, they are fit to spec when the two sprockets are placed on the ends of the cams. If the belt is loose enough to slap, the belt is so shot you risk destroying the motor as if it should break the valves and pistons will merge into one messy mix. I don't think that's it. It may be the cover is loose and rubbing, or it could be the rubber mounted exhaust cam harmonic balancer that is fit onto the exhaust cam sprocket has come loose. You need to check for both ASAP by pulling the cover off.

 

I just added 2 pictures to the Photo section showing normal and then pushing on the belt. The other side is tight to the touch. Sorry, I wasn't sure how to attach a photo to this post?

Marty

 

Got it

Marty
04 Freelander 80K

 

The belt is ready for replacement. Typically you would do all three, but certainly you can replace the rear belts independently from the front. The process is covered in the RAVE manual, but suffice to say you will need a new belt and two new stretch bolts for the sprockets at a minimum. There is a special tool to hold the sprockets and belt together while you place them on the cams. You can find a set on EBay by searching for KV6 cam timing tool. Once you have the parts and tool, you can replace the belt in just a few minutes. Keep the revs under 2500 until you've changed it.