Stuck in the key after charging the dead battery (about every 3 days) and it started drove well everything worked and NO GHOST TYPE LOCKING. Door locks up and down by themselves. Drive from shop to house, DID NOT SHUT IT OFF, back to the shop then back to the house NEVER turning off the car, call me "CHICKEN" all was good.
Backed it into the spot took out the key and the thing STILL THINKS THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH same as before EXCEPT I can put in the key and start the motor, could not before.
I hit the ignition switch with WD-40 in case of water or ? causing this.
I am GUESSING the ignition switch is the the problem with all the other things going on with the locks and such.
Any good guess???

 

There is a key-in-switch contact, which puts a ground on a brown/white wire from the BeCM. The header connector C0233 is just behind the dash cover. So if you have a skinned cable, all sorts of fun could happen. See pix and drawings, for you and/or your shop. Sorry for the upside down pix.

 

Since I do all the work at the shop it is fitting that it is UPSIDE DOWN. Matches me sometimes
Thank you will look.
I am LEANING towards the ignition switch

 

WD40 is the worst thing you could do with an electrical switch. WD40 is mineral oil in a hydrophobic (water chasing) solvent. The solvent may "degrease old gummed up grease but when the solvent dries the mineral oil will dry out and make the movable parts sticky and probably stickier than before. The mineral oil is not conductive which might compound electrical problems. Use electronic cleaner in a spray can, this can now be found in automotive stores. It has a solvent and a light silicone lubricant that will wipe clean off contacts and does not dry into a sticky goo.

 

An alternative way to clean electrical contacts, key locks and finer mechanical things is to use computer cans of dusters. Most of them are cans of propane - not a good thing around sparks so beware and be careful. Spraying into a mechanical portion of a switch like the key insertion area will not clean the electrical contacts as they are behind the mechanism. Turn the can upside down to spray liquid propane into an area that needs degreasing and cannot withstand the chemicals in brake cleaning fluid or carb cleaning fluid. Propane will not attack plastics, cloths, polyester... Consider it a dry cleaning fluid.

If you are using this in an electrical environment turn all power off and give the area adequate time to dissipate the fumes as it is unhealthy to rapidly heat skin, leather upholstery, wires and other things that contain volatile compounds.

Your car is suffering from numerous ground faults. Corrosion has attacked the some places where the ground wires are attached to the chassis of the car. Ground faults can float a ground depending on humidity, temperature and such because now a metal oxide, which is an unstable conductor if at all, is providing ground to your electronic boxes. And what a mess that is in a Range Rover P38. Honestly, as someone who has designed electronic controls and personal computer peripherals for 20 plus years, to me, Land Rover's paradigm is a cluster f. And yet I am drawn to all its imperfections because I like the car it controls! Quite honestly, there are $25.00 hobbyist computers that could easily replace many of various ECUs in all of today's cars.

Maybe someday enough people will get together to make the automotive industry work with open source modules, something like Linux, so we, the common people can diagnose, repair and even create more eloquent solutions to the automotive problems we face in keeping our cars alive.

As you can see I see the so called "Test Book" computer program, or whatever its called, as the UI to the car's Operating System. Without this, we are still tied to a Land Rover distributorship, even through indie shops, to ultimately fix many of our problems we could easily address ourselves.

 

WD 40 is not much good for mechanical side of lock switches either, for same reasons - it solvents the gunk, then lets it dry out.