It almost seems that with the 1200W sound system upgrade, the power of the alternator was overlooked.. i'd be curious to see what happens on the same truck without the sound system upgrade.. with your calculation, the sound system would draw roughly 120 amps at 100% volume though right? i'm having the problem at even 70-80% volume.. do u think that an alternator that can output more amps could resolve this problem?

 

There may not be a program option in the "energy management" system to adjust to the new power level, if it uses a current sensing method. Or it may simply work by sampling voltage. Could test with a second charged up battery attached. Finding a larger alternator or having a shop fab one is also $$. Of course alternators can be had at larger amps, I have a 250 in a truck at the office, and ambulances are frequently equipped with 350 amp models. Don't know if wiring radio direct to battery with independent fuse would help, or by design jeapodize vehicle operation. You are certainly on the bleeding edge of technology. But it boils down to design, you can't plug 30 desktop computers into a single 15 amp outlet and expect them all to boot up at the same time. I'd say you have quite a beef with the dealer/LRNA, good luck.

On the downside, your heated screen will probably develop stress fractures from the increased bass levels.....

And you issues can also be transferred to older vehicles by owner additions. A D1 has a meager 100 amp alternator, and mine draws a tad over 80, with no Hellas. Add a boom box, and I'd be where you are. Please post the resolution, because many owners are young men who enjoy music and add the biggest radio and amp combo they can.

 

I understand what you mean when you say "you can't plug 30 desktop computers into a single 15 amp outlet" however, i'm not trying to power anything that's not factory installed.. one would assume that the truck would be designed in such a way to at least provide adequate power to easily power all the factory accessories..

my cousin suggested an easy way to test it without installing a second battery would be to hook up jumper cables from another running vehicle and test it out that way to see if the sound still clips out.. would that have the same effect as installing a second battery?

Just for the record, i'm a major sound system guy and I do have 2 Alpine type x's installed with 2 PDX-M12 amps and a capacitor; however, i had my issue well documented with the dealership before I even installed the sound system and i've had it disconnected for quite some time while trying to sort out this problem (I only had it installed before having the issue resolved because they were taking way too long and I transferred it from the 2009 truck I had so I wouldn't have to store it somewhere).. i'm not complaining about lack of power/voltage with my sound system running, my problem is with my sound system completely disconnected.. although, whether the subwoofers are running or not, the sound still clips out at the same volumes with the same accessories running..

My truck is currently at the dealership and they are addressing a number of issues again, including the sound clipping/voltage problem. I will update you guys with what they say..

 

Check your private messages and call me.

 

therealassmikeg, i just saw your message and I will try to call you during the day tomorrow (March 9).. thanks

I picked up my truck today and they did not even address the sound system issue.. they took the information down again (pretty much copied the complaint from the last time I was in) and it seemed as if they would actually do something this time (it was in for other things as well such is blind spot sensor blocked fault, left and right cameras losing signal, squealing brakes, right side tailgate strut rusting, front suspension sqeaking).. I even provided the manager a print out of some of the suggestions from this forum that were given.. turns out when I called today, the manager told me I wasted my time on here because they didn't even tell me it was dropping under 12V.. that is a straight out lie because they told me that they put a meter to it and it was going down to 11 something volts while started and under load.. they totally backed out from even telling me that and since it wasn't in writing, there's nothing I can do about it.. I told them I didn't just dream up that it was dropping under 12V.. of course customer relations is listening to whatever the dealership says.. total bull****.. this is Land Rover of Richmond that i'm going to by the way.. located in British Columbia, Canada.

I guess i'm going to have to try the voltage tests on my own and see what happens.. i don't really have many options at this point..

 

And some of the sound system guys may suggest you need to add one of those very large capacitors to hold up the volts during clipping. See Car Audio Capacitors | Car Capacitors | Stereo Capacitors. The stereo uses higher power in very short millisecond bursts based on the music, and is not a steady state power drain of always exactly "x.234 amps". The capacitor provides extra energy during those bursts, then quickly recharges from the electrical system, faster than SWMBO can swipe a credit card.

As to 2nd battery I was suggesting use of a second battery, which you can accomplish with a second vehicle and heavy duty jumper cables. Test without second vehicle running, this approximates what results you would have with a larger capacity battery. Test with second vehicle running and revved up to about 1500 rpm. This will provide some extra alternator amps. Simulate best case/worse case with trouble vehicle by just having radio on, or also operating with radio, AC, fans on high, wipers on, headlights on high, and foot on brake, heated windscreen on (only lasts a short time).

You can monitor your own volts while driving with something like the pix for about $20. Voltmeters range in price from $5 at Harbor Freight on up. A clamp on DC amp meter is a few hundred dollars, and clamps around the big cable from the alternator. This will read the actual amps being delivered, without disconecting any wires or being invasive.

So if the alternator is rated for let's say 140 amps, and it is delivering 100 amps, and you are getting clipping, and voltage is dropping below 13.2 under loads, alternator could have a bad regulator or one or more diodes inside could be out. You'll have normal volts at idle, but not under expected loads, because you would really have a 40 - 70 amp alternator in effect.

If alternator is putting out at or near the full rated amps, and volts drop, and clipping happens; you are drawing too much from the system. Either increase size of alternator, or decrease amps by turning of AC system and enjoying windows rolled down. Of course observe any noise ordinances.

Let us say neither condition happens. Clipping is happening, but volts at battery with truck running are between 13.2 and 14.4 (depending on loads). The voltage drop between the battery and alternator terminals and the radio could be the issue. One little connector or lug, improperly terminated, or slightly oxidized, or loose; is all it would take. A good electrician could start with a basic meter at the (+) battery terminal and make reading along the cable, fuse box, and more cable until he/she got to the radio. Such a poor connection causing a voltage drop could be found.

As to Rover design, while we may wail about some things, I would also have to think that Rover employs a number of engineers, and many of them enjoy music, at high volumes. So I would think that they would have tested the systems under various conditions. But as the pros that have responded have mentioned, the energy management system may be jumping into the mix. And it may be that you are chasing an odd problem that is just hard for a tech to run down, like the bad connection.

Now by monitoring voltage while driving, you can report that you hear clipping and volts are "X", and other device "Y" is switched off and volts change to "X+3" or such, and this would help the diagnosis.

And it makes no matter what kind of modern vehicle you are in, if it uses a 12 volt electrical system, and you are driving with the charging voltage at 11 volts, the battery will go dead at some point, and you will coast to the side of the road.