93 Classic frt axle component debug input requested
last week whilst 4 wheeling in 8-12' swamp water the bottom dropped out to 3-4 feet and the rover dipped the headlights and bonnet under the wash momentarily - like hundreds of times before. BUT this time something broken in the front drivetrain. it was clicking and thunking when turning very hard. The driver made it 4 miles back to pavement through swamp and sand and drove 55mph some 35 miles back home. then the drive train "let go". whilest in forward or reverse the front axle spins but the rover doesn't move forward or backwards. It makes a GGGSSSSHHHHHHGGGGSSSHHHHH and light metallic grinding noise. the rear driveshaft doesnt turn. in reverse the front shaft spins the opposite direction and the (say Gee) GGGGGGSSSHHHH noise also - but no vehicle movement.
1. how could only the front driveshaft turn shouldn't the rear shaft turn as well and push the car forward/back (viscous coupling)?
2. how can we tell which part of the front axle is broken (since we can't pull the diff cover off so easily to inspect the gears.
3. it seemed like the trans was slipping but the front drive shaft is clearly spinning at a proper ratio of engine RPM...
I'm assuming the problem is a broken internal part on one of the shafts CV, c-lip on the axle, snapped axle, spline stripped, etc... how likely is it that a viscous coupling in the transfer case could blow out at the same time as an axle snapping?
After not moving and several tests, I started it up and THEN the gears engaged and it moved forward 10 feet and then POP, BBBAAAHHHHZEZZZZZZZZZZZ. "broken again".
vehicle 1993 SWB RR Classic. 3.9, LHD, newer transmission.
Any ideas of items to check first on the axle? transfer case? thougths?
You input is greatly appreciated...
1. how could only the front driveshaft turn shouldn't the rear shaft turn as well and push the car forward/back (viscous coupling)?
2. how can we tell which part of the front axle is broken (since we can't pull the diff cover off so easily to inspect the gears.
3. it seemed like the trans was slipping but the front drive shaft is clearly spinning at a proper ratio of engine RPM...
I'm assuming the problem is a broken internal part on one of the shafts CV, c-lip on the axle, snapped axle, spline stripped, etc... how likely is it that a viscous coupling in the transfer case could blow out at the same time as an axle snapping?
After not moving and several tests, I started it up and THEN the gears engaged and it moved forward 10 feet and then POP, BBBAAAHHHHZEZZZZZZZZZZZ. "broken again".
vehicle 1993 SWB RR Classic. 3.9, LHD, newer transmission.
Any ideas of items to check first on the axle? transfer case? thougths?
You input is greatly appreciated...
Hi,
I had a similar or different problem, but I am suspecting the same result for a test. In my case I have an 89 RR with 450+ K miles on the clock. Actually I stopped counting.
Anyway jack the rig up so the front wheels are off the ground. Make sure the vehicle is in Nuetral, but also make sure to block the rear wheels so it doesn't move forward on you. Now there are three things you are testing and this test is for one of the resultants.
[ol][*]Rotate either wheel forwards or backwards. If the opposite wheel does not rotate in the opposite direction you are rotating then your differential is shot.[*]Drain the oil out of the differential and then sift your fingers through the oil. If the oil is silvery then the teeth on the differential have disinagrated. If you find bits of metal in the oil most likely it is the remains of the teeth.[*]Lower the rig bag down on the ground. Drive it to a large parking lot and then drive circles right and left. Whilst doing so stick your head out the window for each side of turn. You will need a partner for the opposite turn from you to listen. If you hear a clicking cluncking knocking noise you can be assured the CV is shot. I can't remember but I think the 93 still has sealed *****. If the do you can purchase a CV ball joint and rebuild kit from Rovers North. But you will want to check the splines on the shafts inners and outers as thos too could be effected.[*]For steps 1 & 2 if you encounter any of the ailments you will need to replace the front axle. This is a real bitch as Land Rover will want to charge you around $3800 and that is a lot of pain. There are much better solutions. Find a used one. I did. I got mine from the RoverGuy he charged me $250 + the shipping to my shop. A cost of about $400. I then have a friend and I used his lift and changed out the whole front end. It took me a day to do, but it fixed the problem.[/ol]
Hope this helps you out as it saved me bunches of bucks.
Cheers,
Geoff
I had a similar or different problem, but I am suspecting the same result for a test. In my case I have an 89 RR with 450+ K miles on the clock. Actually I stopped counting.
Anyway jack the rig up so the front wheels are off the ground. Make sure the vehicle is in Nuetral, but also make sure to block the rear wheels so it doesn't move forward on you. Now there are three things you are testing and this test is for one of the resultants.
[ol][*]Rotate either wheel forwards or backwards. If the opposite wheel does not rotate in the opposite direction you are rotating then your differential is shot.[*]Drain the oil out of the differential and then sift your fingers through the oil. If the oil is silvery then the teeth on the differential have disinagrated. If you find bits of metal in the oil most likely it is the remains of the teeth.[*]Lower the rig bag down on the ground. Drive it to a large parking lot and then drive circles right and left. Whilst doing so stick your head out the window for each side of turn. You will need a partner for the opposite turn from you to listen. If you hear a clicking cluncking knocking noise you can be assured the CV is shot. I can't remember but I think the 93 still has sealed *****. If the do you can purchase a CV ball joint and rebuild kit from Rovers North. But you will want to check the splines on the shafts inners and outers as thos too could be effected.[*]For steps 1 & 2 if you encounter any of the ailments you will need to replace the front axle. This is a real bitch as Land Rover will want to charge you around $3800 and that is a lot of pain. There are much better solutions. Find a used one. I did. I got mine from the RoverGuy he charged me $250 + the shipping to my shop. A cost of about $400. I then have a friend and I used his lift and changed out the whole front end. It took me a day to do, but it fixed the problem.[/ol]
Hope this helps you out as it saved me bunches of bucks.
Cheers,
Geoff
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